Z Is For Zinfandel
From my earliest wine drinking days I have always loved zinfandel. Not all zinfandels, mind you, but those that are balanced and well-made from fruit grown in old and well-situated vineyards.
Zinfandel is generally thought of as California's own. However, its origins go back to vines that existed in Croatia and Italy in the 1800s. Vines arrived on the East Coast in the early 19th century, at which point the name zinfandel existed in various forms and is of uncertain origin. The vines arrived in California during the time of the gold rush, where zinfandel was widely planted in field blends with other varieties. The wines made from these vines were the basis of many of the jug wines produced in the very early days before and after Prohibition.
As varietal bottlings evolved and the grape became popular, 100 percent zinfandels and some that were made of field blends with other grape varieties became more prevelant. Then came the late-harvest craze of the 1960s, when alcoholic, port-like zinfandels became the rage. Fortunately this trend was short-lived, but it created a terrible oversupply of zinfandel grapes. A lucky mistake at Sutter Home Winery in Napa resulted in "white zinfandel" which became very popular with novice wine drinkers who liked their wine with some sweetness. That trend continued and is likely responsible for saving many old zinfandel vines, which today are producing grapes that go into some really terrific red wines.
Currently, zinfandel is planted in more than 10 percent of all California vineyards. It is also grown in 14 other states, from Washington to New York as well as countries like Australia, Mexico, and South Africa. Not to mention the Italian grape primitivo was approved in Europe as the same as zinfandel and is, therefore, eligible to be exported as such. White zinfandel accounts for nearly 10 percent of U.S. wine sales today by volume and has six times the sales of red zinfandel.
Zinfandel is very versatile — the grape has a high sugar content which can be fermented to alcohol levels well above 15 percent. However, for me, the best zinfandels are rich and balanced, exhibiting ripe, but not overripe fruit. They also tend to have alcohol levels in the 14-15 percent range, but again the best ones are balanced by the purity of the fruit. I enjoy zinfandel with hearty foods like grilled meats, as well as with cheese and other savory dishes such as pasta with spicy sauces. It is also a wine I serve at Thanksgiving along with rosé and cru beaujolais.
Recently, I tasted two newly released 2009 zinfandels — one from Napa and one from Sonoma — both are really delicious. Along with the great 2009 zinfandels from Ridge, these are the best zinfandels I have had of late. If you haven't tried zinfandel or haven't had one in a while, I recommend that you try these wines. And, you just might want to buy some for Thanksgiving as well.
2009 Quivira Vineyards and Winery, Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma, Calif.
This zinfandel was made from estate-grown grapes and grapes harvested from neighboring vineyards. The wine is composed of 83 percent zinfandel, 9 percent cabernet sauvignon, 3 percent petite sirah, 3 percent syrah, and 2 percent grenache. This somewhat unusual blend has produced a zinfandel with balance, depth, and complexity. The wine has a dark color and a deep olallieberry perfume, with hints of spice and a faintly briary, floral undertone. It has layers of olallieberry fruit and is supple and lush with a nice underlying complexity of spice and a tinge of chocolate accented by a faint briary, floral quality. — Outstanding. $20
2009 Robert Craig Winery Howell Mountain, Napa Valley, Calif.
Robert Craig Winery is best known for their outstanding line of vineyard-designated cabernet sauvignons and their proprietary blend of bordeaux varietals, Affinity. However, they also make a small quantity of zinfandel, which is sourced from the Black Sears Vineyard situated at the very top of Howell Mountain. This 2009 is a very elegantly crafted wine that is composed of 86 percent zinfandel, 9 percent petite sirah, and 5 percent syrah. The production totaled only 294 cases. The wine is dark in color and has a gorgeous perfume of blackberries and plums with hints of spice and a faint floral undertone. With lots of floral tinged fruit accented by hints of spice, vanilla, and a hint of cocoa, the wine is lush and rounded with a long finish. — Outstanding. $50
— John Tilson, The Underground Wine Letter
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