Goldeneye Gowan Creek Vineyard Pinot Noir 2005

"This is a new single-vineyard bottling for Goldeneye, grown in the cooler Deep End western part of the valley. It's a feral kind of Pinot. Not for it the tame fruit of warmer climates. This one brims with wild berries: cherries, raspberries, something animal and leathery, and mossy tastes of balsam and tar. For all that explosion, the wine's tannins and acids keep it controlled and balanced, and it never loses its silky lightness. Best now and for six years or so."
-Wine Enthusiast