Summer Whites from All Over
Like young children bursting out of their classrooms on the first day of summer vacation, the market floods this time of year with energetic white wines from all kinds of grapes from all over the world — some exotic and tropical, some crisp and lean-structured.
Pull up a glass and enjoy.
2013 Cultivate “Double Blind” Veneto pinot grigio ($14). A basic-level grigio with a somewhat flabby body but enjoyable green fruit flavors.
2012 Masi “Masianco” Veneto pinot grigio and verduzzo ($14). Fresh, lively fruit at the front that slows a bit at the finish, which is chalky/creamy and herbal.
2013 Belle Ambiance California pinot grigio ($9). My Pick of the Litter. Juicy, lively fruit — peachy, yet basically dry — with a pleasant little spritz, perhaps from the addition of some bubbles at the winery. Quite enjoyable and quite a bargain.
2013 J Russian River pinot gris ($14). An elegant, enjoyable wine with lemony flavors, a touch of creaminess, and a pleasant bitter finish.
2013 CVNE “Monopole” Rioja blanco ($14). Very much like an entry-level chablis, not very exciting, but with crisp green fruit and nice minerality.
2013 Aia Vecchia Toscana vermentino ($12). Well-made, with crisp, green fruits such as kiwi and gooseberries — think sauvignon blanc without the lime. Expect to see more vermentino, especially from Tuscany’s Maremma coast.
2013 Terras Gauda “Abadía de San Campio” Rias Baixas albariño ($19). Riper flavors than most albariños, with good minerality and citrus notes — quite nice.
2013 Terras Gauda Rias Baixas O Rosal ($22). A fuller, less racy, more complex wine than “Abadía” and blends albariño with companion grapes loureiro and caiño blanco.
2012 Inama Soave classico ($15) A very nice drink-it-now wine with notes of peach and apricot skins and a nice minerality.
2012 Inama “Vignetti di Foscarino” Soave classico ($24). A serious, substantial Soave, somewhat floral with a good minerality and a somewhat lean finish.
2011 Inama “Vigneto du Lot” Soave classico ($30). An even fuller Soave, with honey and brioche flavors, that pair well with foods like poultry but which would overpower most shellfish dishes.