On the Road in Atlantic Canada
It is a lovely Sunday afternoon in Atlantic Canada as Ella and I deplane at Halifax airport and toss our bags into the rental car for our seven-day, five-destination, late summer sojourn. Combined, we are a writer and two photographers, and over the week we will be guests at four resorts and an urban hotel and will put about 1,200 miles on our Buick La Crosse rental. Plus, we’ll pick up a lot of memories along the way.
Our destinations are designed to show us the variety of Atlantic Canada. First, the bucolic Liscombe Lodge on Nova Scotia’s quiet Eastern Shore, followed by the iconic Keltic Lodge perched on the wild headlands of Cape Breton, then a long hop to Digby Pines on the Bay of Fundy. A ferry ride across the bay will get us to St. John for the drive to the stately Algonquin Lodge, just a few miles north of Maine, and then a final drive through rural and urban New Brunswick en route to the Westin Nova Scotian in Halifax. En route, we will stop at historic villages, see how handcrafted foods are made, forage for mushrooms in the forest, drink locally made beer and spirits, and eat the bounty of the land and sea: fresh vegetables and mushrooms to go with lobster, clams, salmon, mussels, oysters, and scallops.
I push the ignition, and a couple of hours later, as night starts to fall, we arrive at Liscombe Lodge, where we dine on lobster and planked salmon before falling asleep with the falls of Liscombe River gurgling outside our luxury cabin.
The next morning, as breezes waft in from the Atlantic, Chester Rudolph takes me on a pontoon boat tour of Liscombe Bay, once a rugged center for logging and fishing but today a tourist destination for families looking for an active summer camp at upscale Liscombe Lodge.
On our way to Cape Breton, we stop at Sherbrooke Village, a living museum of early twentieth-century life with three streets of shops; blacksmith, boat builder, pharmacy, and a printer where a hand-fed press turns out recipes for such period delicacies as rose hip jelly and oat cakes.
Roger Morris is a special contributor to The Daily Meal.