Restaurant Critic Roundup: Invisible Line Divides Menu at The Marrow
As always, the ratings range from stars to bells to beans, but every review offers specialized insight into the food, atmosphere, and service of eateries in each city’s dining scene and the critics eating at them.
This week in New York, critic Pete Wells reviews The Marrow, which was just reviewed by critic Ryan Sutton last week. Of The Marrow, Wells states, "Another invisible line divides the menu, too. It is the split between dishes that are completely sure of their purpose and the ones so overembellished it’s unclear what the idea was meant to be." This week, Sutton's three stars have been reduced to one from Wells.
In San Francisco, critic Michael Bauer puts the popular Ramen Shop under scrutiny. His feedback? "Given the instant popularity of the place, service is surprisingly cheerful and helpful. You don't feel as if you're being rushed, but you can finish three courses in less than an hour. And believe me, there will always be someone waiting for your seat."
At Playground in Santa Ana, Calif., the manifesto asks customers to "Please take the wording on our menu very seriously." After opening up the menu however, critic Brad A. Johnson finds this troubling: "So I'm reading the menu, wondering how seriously I should interpret a dish called 'You Wanna Be A Baller, Shot Caller, 20 Inch Rims on the Impalla!!!'"
From the East Coast to the West Coast, from North to South, the weekly restaurant critic roundup is here for all of your dining out needs.
Restaurant Critic Roundup: 2/26/2013
|Katie Johnston||Boston Globe||Steel & Rye||3 stars|
|Ryan Sutton||Bloomberg||The General||1.5 stars|
|Pete Wells||New York Times||The Marrow||1 star|
|Michael Bauer||San Francisco Chronicle||Ramen Shop||3 bells|
|Brad A. Johnson||Orange County Register||Playground||2.5 stars|
|Tom Sietsema||Washington Post||Tash|
|William Porter||Denver Post||Makan Malaysian Cafe||1.5 stars|
Tyler Sullivan is The Daily Meal's assistant editor. Follow her on Twitter at @atylersullivan.