Q&A With Chef Michael Lomonaco
Chef Michael Lomonaco of Porter House New York takes a few moments to talk steaks, sides, Shakespeare, his menu for a planned food truck, and Socks the cat.
You trained with some great chefs, Alain Sailhac and Daniel Boulud to name just two. Who were the three most influential chefs in your career and what was the one most important thing you learned from each?
From Alain Sailhac I learned how to plan, focus and control a kitchen. I learned rich flavors and seasonality from Daniel Boulud. And Larry Forgione taught me about using local ingredients and cooking them with the inspiration of American regionality.
Porter House New York opened fall of 2006. You've settled in. What aspect of it are you most proud of? Any things you'd like to improve?
I am most pleased with the team of restaurant professionals I have fortunate to assemble here; their daily attention to detail and astute service of our guests, from both the dining room staff as well as the kitchen has proved to be of the highest standards. I and my team try every day to build on past success, not grow stagnant or too comfortable, but rather continue to see new opportunities to make Porter House New York a world-class dining experience.
What's your favorite steakhouse side dish?
For this I would have to say the seasonal specials: Hudson Valley creamed corn, or pan-roasted Brussels sprouts with apple-wood smoked bacon.
Any failsafe tips for cooking steak? Things to always and never do?
Always buy the best grade meat you can find — with an unlimited budget choose Prime Aged — always buy fresh not frozen meat, salt just prior to cooking, use a screaming hot cast iron pan if your searing the beef, or hot grill for that char so many people like — although don't char the meat to a blackened finish, but rather let the salt develop the char into a crispy finish and then move the meat to a cooler part of the grill for final cooking.
Besides quality meat, what's the secret behind a great steak tartare?
Use a first quality cut of meat, like tenderloin, and chop it yourself by hand with a sharp knife just prior to seasoning and serving. Serve and consume quickly.
What's your favorite cocktail/wine steak pairing?
I love a beef Dry Aged Prime Strip steak with an Italian wine from Piedmont or Tuscany; or give me a first rate Rye Manhattan. Ummm good.
What do you think of this trend of non-steakhouses doing great, flashy, expensive, high-quality steaks? Are you a fan of any of the players?
Great beef is available to many great restaurants, and most restaurants have to have a simple straightforward beef steak that many diners demand — usually these are great steaks, cooked very well and in the style of the restaurant that is serving them, which is usually a different preparation and cooking technique than you would find in a great steakhouse. Good beef, but apples to oranges.
What's the funniest thing you've ever seen happen in a kitchen?
I cooked at the White House in 1994 for President Clinton in a special event and saw Socks the cat being escorted to his bowl of milk by two heavily armed Secret Service officers –they were the First Cat's Protection service.
You were a SAG card-carrying actor for what, 7 years? You've said you did road shows, bit parts in movies, Off-Off Broadway, comedy troupes. Do you remember any lines?
I once played Caliban to Jimmy Smits' Prospero:
Be not afeard; the isle is full of noises,
Sounds, and sweet airs, that give delight and hurt not.
Sometimes a thousand twangling instruments
Will hum about mine ears; and sometime voices
That, if I then had waked after long sleep,
Will make me sleep again; and then in dreaming,
The clouds methought would open, and show riches
Ready to drop upon me, that when I waked
I cried to dream again.
Any one skill, or thing you learned as an actor that prepared you for being a chef?
Listen to others, learn from others, and learn my lines (re: recipes).
You recently told GQ you once dreamed of having a barbecue truck, but that you think you'll work on a steak truck. You must have had a great barbecue recipe or dish you wanted to do, no? If so, what was it?
I have an excellent oven-roasted BBQ brisket inspired by my Austin Texas BBQ trip. This is heaven.
Any items we might expect from a truck? Any chance of a roast beef dipped sandwich?
I am working on something, and yes, French Dip is in the plan.
What's the best sandwich in New York City?
Joe's of Avenue U in Brooklyn makes the one and only best vestedde on a roll with ricotta and caciocavallo — for the uninitiated — beef heart cooked in lard on a soft roll — the street food of Palermo.