Pleasure House Oysters: Reviving Virginia's Lynnhaven River

Oyster harvesting is rough labor rife with risk, so when I learned that the men of Virginia's Pleasure House Oysters handled every aspect of their operation by hand, I was a little skeptical.  

To put things in perspective, I had just visited another first-class operation in a different corner of the Commonwealth, Rappahannock Oyster Co., whose boats were outfitted with mechanized cranes for lifting bulky cages from the river. On top of that,  Rappahannock's oysters (which I highly recommend) are tumbled and graded (terms which I'll explain shortly) using a cylindrical steel contraption that takes part of the burden off the bodies of its workers, and it was tough to imagine how those crucial steps could be duplicated without heavy equipment.  

But, then I had the privilege of hopping aboard a Pleasure House boat to check out the process firsthand, and it was a remarkable experience.

Led by owner and founder Chris Ludford, Pleasure House Oysters is based in the Lynnhaven River, a tidal estuary of the Chesapeake Bay in Virginia Beach, Va.  In America's early days, Lynnhaven oysters were deemed exquisite eats by European royalty and constantly shipped back, but in the 1960s, the river was closed off to shellfish farmers because of toxicity issues that arose from over-harvesting and pollution. Oysters are a natural water filter, so when populations are depleted, chemical and mineral levels rise to dangerous heights; add in bacteria buildup from storm water runoff and antiquated septic tanks, and it equates to an array of aquatic issues that make seafood unfit for human consumption.

Fast-forward about five decades, and with the determination of nonprofits like Lynnhaven River NOW and the Chesapeake Bay Foundation (CBF), the river was partially reopened for shellfish farming in 2007. This inspired Ludford to learn everything he could about oyster farming and aquaculture. Then, in 2012, these organizations fought like adrenalized boxers to have the state preserve Pleasure House Point, a historic stretch along the Lynnhaven that, according to local legend, was named after one of America's first watering holes (despite the name's implication, it's not named after a brothel).  Developers were ready to raze hundreds of trees and destroy wetlands abundant with wildlife to build condos yards from where Ludford now keeps a trove of oyster cages, and he knows he wouldn't be able to pursue this passion if those high-rises had been erected.

Gliding across the Lynnhaven's shallow waters in Ludford's motor boat (which is the sole piece of machinery he and his crew employ) and listening to him talk about his trade, you instantly realize how connected he is to the area and how dedicated he is to perfecting his craft. You also get the sense that he is a man who rarely sleeps. Dressed in a sun-bleached camo cap and a gray collared fleece covered with faded olive green Frogg Toggs waterproof overalls, he guided us to a secluded section of river next to a tall patch of cordgrass. He leaped into the brackish with youthful exuberance you would not expect from a man with golden-gray hair and ambled through knee-deep water to his cache of cages.  

Ludford then lifted and lugged a hefty enclosure from one of the stacks (using upper-body strength he acquired from his other full-time job as a fireboat captain — no kidding) and trudged his way back to the edge of the boat (exhibiting patience he cultivated as a dad with three little boys — confirmed: he never sleeps) where he placed it like an infant in a crib. Unlatching it, he removed the top and plucked out a red sea sponge — one of many common (and colorful) guests who show up uninvited to mess with his oyster collection — before removing a handful of prized Lynnhavens.

Placing them in a blue plastic bucket with small holes around the bottom and sides, he held it by two handles at the top and shook it up and down with vigor. This is called "tumbling," done to break off jagged bits and shape the oysters' shells into perfect cups for immaculate presentation when served raw on the half-shell. When I asked Ludford why he chooses to manually tumble boatside in such backbreaking fashion, his response touched upon all the right reasons:

"If tumbling is done on a boat at a farm, most oyster farms use gas-powered machinery or hydraulics or a combination of both. All this does is increase the risk of polluting the farm and oysters should a hydraulic line burst or gas is spilled when refilling a tank or oil leaks from the engine. If it's done on land, then you have to take the oysters to shore, do the work and then bring them back."  

Heat also stresses out oysters, so processes that call for long periods out of the water could affect quality. Ludford also points out that there's an urge to use fresh water from the city when tumbling on shore, which is not only a waste, but could also lead to contaminated runoff damaging dockside estuaries.  

But, to the man behind the mission, the most important reason of all is "not losing touch with [his] product." And his hands are everywhere in the operation.

Ludford knows his unconventional approach and attitude could be polarizing in an industry that appears to be losing the battle to avoid quality-eroding mass-production in some areas, but he accepts that it's the only way to maintain his stellar product specs.  

"I love the fact that we get to see and touch every oyster throughout their growth. So much negativity is associated with land-based farming these days and the appearance of mass production and the efforts to maximize yield. It seems that this is creeping into aquaculture and even shellfish farming. Our Pleasure House Oysters are loved from start to finish; from us growers to the people who eat them. Some say we are organic aqua farmers or that we produce a hand-crafted oyster. I think both are true statements. Keep in mind that our goal is to come as close to a wild Lynnhaven Oyster as possible and that is a lofty standard which I feel would be diminished by mass production. I think bigger operations are doing a great job producing great oysters and I don't want to anger them or alienate myself in the industry. I just knew from the beginning that we had to be different — and we are."

Post-tumble, the oysters are "graded" by hand, meaning sorted into groups by size, before they're cleaned, counted, and packaged with ice for expedited shipping. The painstaking protocol is something to marvel at, a true testament to Pleasure House Oysters' commitment "to building a business on quality, freshness, and reputation."

So, you're probably wondering how Pleasure House Oysters taste after the extensive effort put into raising them.

Ludford broke out his trusty shucker and popped some open so I could sample his wares straight from the source.

I'm no oyster aficionado, but here's my take on eating Pleasure House's Lynnhavens:

For starters, these are no ordinary oysters in terms of dimension: they're huge. Sipping the liquor, you get a refreshing, briny taste that snaps across your palate. It's an instant, salty awakening of the senses and an excellent indication of what's to follow. After savoring the lively liquid (of which there was plenty), I slurped up the slippery, oversized shellfish and started chewing (something I began doing at the behest of the oyster experts around me, and it makes sense: you can't savor when you shoot). Oceanic flavors flashed over my tongue, with a significant amount of salinity (but not overpoweringly so), and a subtle sweetness that peaked toward the end (perhaps being released from a certain section that was late to land between my molars).  

Not missing a beat, Ludford handed me another oyster and I repeated the sip-savor-slurp-savor-swallow sequence a second time. This one seemed to be slightly sweeter, and I noticed hints of seaweed this time. I was in. After several more, I could easily proclaim these were some of the best oysters I've eaten.

Tim Solanic, who handles social media, blogging, filming/photography, and many other responsibilities for Pleasure House Oysters, is equally enthusiastic about the environment as he is oysters. While Ludford shucked another round for the rest of the group, Solanic was effusive about how the area was soon to become a major hub for education and research about eco-friendly practices once construction of the CBF's Brock Environmental Center is completed along a stretch of protected land at Pleasure House Point.  

"CBF having their Hampton Roads headquarters in an off-the-grid facility on Pleasure House Point — that will teach kids of all ages about environmental education — was a goal and dream I've had since 2002. Every time I give it a lot of thought, I break down crying with tears of joy and disbelief. It's astounding to me that big, 'impossible' dreams can indeed come true with enough hard work and luck."

The $21-million project is striving to attain the highest goals in green architecture, including LEED Platinum and Living Building Challenge certification, and hopes to have a "net-zero" impact on the surrounding habitat. Solanic is confident this initiative by the Chesapeake Bay Foundation will inspire similar centers to spring up, and he knows a healthy Lynnhaven is essential if the Hampton Roads region is to flourish both financially and ecologically.

"As a tree-hugging capitalist," he says with a smile, "I find it's not only environmentally, but also economically beneficial for everyone on the Lynnhaven if the watershed is clean enough for us to enjoy these oysters. People and institutions who aren't motivated to improve and sustain a clean Lynnhaven are on the wrong side of science, economic development, and morality. Naysayers will be passionately corrected by their grandchildren."

You can only find Pleasure House Oysters at select locations in Virginia Beach because of their limited supply (only one in five is currently sold as they're building up the population), but these shellfish are worth seeking out. The short list of restaurants serving them is as follows: Terrapin, an extraordinary gem near the Virginia Beach oceanfront helmed by chef Rodney Einhorn, a CIA-graduate; A.W. Shucks Raw Bar and Grill in Norfolk; Eurasia Café & Wine Bar in Virginia Beach; and CHOW in Norfolk, the only location that Ludford allows to serve his Lynnhavens any other way than raw on the half-shell.

That's correct: Ludford is so proud of his Lynnhavens that he decries serving them cooked, but for CHOW, he's given the go-ahead on a minor alteration.

"They lightly roast the oysters coated in sea salt, open them, and serve them warm with only clarified butter and lemon. The oyster is still sitting in its own liquor and is very much rare, not raw, but warm and rare. This is the choice of chef Damien. He says it keeps the flavor and juices intact but puts their signature on the oyster dish. I think it may also save them time by speeding the shucking process because the heat pops the oysters open."

Eventually, Ludford, Solanic, and company aspire to have Pleasure House Oysters featured on more menus, but they'll never sacrifice quality just to snag extra accounts. As far as they're concerned, the Lynnhaven's purity and having the ability to enjoy plump oysters from its waters is the only reward that matters when the rubber boots come off — even if that philosophy means taking a slice from their profits.  

"As a small family-run business, our plan to be successful in this effort is based on trying to satisfy local customers and markets first. We are the only grower on the East Coast (that we know of) that harvests and delivers on the same day, year-round. We have doubled our production over the last 12 months from 800 oysters a week to 1,600 a week. This is small-crop farming at its best and our reputation is growing."

Perhaps the Pleasure House crew will inspire future oyster entrepreneurs to base their business models around a win-win situation for themselves and the surrounding environment. If you're intrigued with the Pleasure House Oysters process and you're around Virginia Beach, try out their goods at one of the aforementioned restaurants and see what you think. Their size, shells, and taste are bound to impress, but it's their positive impact on the environment that's their most profound distinction.