If there’s a face for Washington, D.C.’s pizza’s saving grace, it’s that of owner and chef Ruth Gresser, who cut her chops in San Francisco in the late 80s and made her personal pizza foray in 1991, when she opened the first Pizzeria Paradiso. “We opened Pizzeria Paradiso so we could make the kind of pizza we longed for but couldn’t find in the D.C. area,” she notes on her site, “the kind of pizza where the crust was the most important part. So we started with a wood-burning, domed, stone oven able to cook at a temperature of 650 degrees.”
The original Pizzeria Paradiso, located on the second floor of a small townhouse in Dupont Circle, was upgraded and relocated to P Street, and has since been joined by spots in Georgetown and Old Town (all three feature beer lists offering 200 bottled beers and a traditional British-style cask ale). Bottarga isn’t the first ingredient you’d expect on a restaurant’s self-described signature pie, but that’s what you get: salty accents to the slightly sweet tomato touch, a nice garlic edge, and some light herbs, Paradiso’s Bottarga pie might just be showing off by adding its egg finish, but you probably won’t mind. coFor a next-level move, check out Gresser’s fast-casual pizzeria Veloce, which also serves scrambled egg-topped breakfast pies.
— Arthur Bovino, 101 Best Pizzas in America 2015, 8/6/2015