Bruce calls this technique sear-and-shove: Sear the chops in a hot skillet, then shove the skillet into a hot oven. Make sure your skillet is oven safe, preferably cast iron or heavy stainless steel. And with no wooden or plastic handles. I once left a dish towel wrapped around a skillet’s handle after I’d shoved the thing into the oven. You know, firemen are the nicest people.
- 1 tablespoon goat butter (or unsalted cow butter, if you must)
- 1 pound goat loin chops or rib chops, each about ½-inch thick
- ½ teaspoon salt, plus more as needed
- ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- 1 small shallot, minced
- 1 teaspoon minced fresh sage leaves
- ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
- 2 tablespoons dry white wine or dry vermouth
- ¼ cup whole goat milk
- ¼ cup fat, sweet fresh blackberries
- A crunchy baguette
Set the rack in the center of the oven. Fire up the oven to 400 degrees Farenheit (205 Celsius).
Melt the butter in a medium-sized, oven-safe skillet over medium heat. Season the chops with the salt and pepper, and then slip them into the skillet. Brown for 2 minutes, shaking the skillet to loosen them up.
Turn the chops and shove the skillet into the oven. Roast until an instant-read meat thermometer inserted into the center of one of the chops registers 140 degrees Farenheit (60 degrees Celsius) (Bruce’s recommendation) or 145 degrees Farenheit (63 degrees Celsius) (the USDA’s), 4-5 minutes.
Remembering that the skillet is ridiculously hot, remove it from the oven, set it over medium heat again, and transfer the chops to a serving platter or individual serving plates.
Stir the minced shallot into the skillet and cook just until soft, probably less than 1 minute. Add the sage and cinnamon; stir until aromatic, about 15 seconds. Now pour in the wine or vermouth. As it boils, scrape up any browned bits in the skillet. The amount of liquid is tiny; it will boil instantly. Work fast.
Pour in the milk and drop in the blackberries. Bring to a full boil and cook for 1 minute, or just until somewhat reduced. Check for salt, then ladle this sauce over the chops. Tear the baguette into pieces so that some can accidentally fall into the sauce as you eat the chops.