Just Released: Biserno Wines From the Creator of Ornellaia

New blends from a moved wine estate

Lodovico Antinori is back.

The creator of Orenellaia, one of the great super Tuscans from the coastal Maremma area near Bolgheri, has now moved a few kilometers north and established a new set of IGT wines at the Tenuta de Biserno estate in Bibbona, joining with his also-famous brother, Piero Antinori, in the ownership. Planting started in 2002.

"I thought that the cabernet sauvignon was getting a little herbaceous in Bolgheri, except for Sassacaia," he says, "so we planted more cabernet franc and a higher percentage of petit verdot, which I love."

Here’s what he has to offer us:

The 2008 Il Pino di Biserno ($80), a Bordeaux-grapes blend, is still very tight — it will open with age or airing — with a lean structure and the flavors of dried blackberries. It has a hint of vermouth vapors at the finish. As a pairing, grilled filet mignon would bring out the best in this second wine of the estate.

The 2008 Biserno ($180), mainly merlot and cabernet franc, is also very well-structured with similar dried blackberry flavors. But it is a little more elegant and generous than the junior wine. It reminds me of the vinous version of a soufflé with a crust — a soft, mushroomy interior with just a touch of mint and briers — surrounded by crunch tannins. In fact, a nice, crusty goat-cheese soufflé with grilled vegetables might not be a bad pairing.