The Foodish Boy Visits Paddington’s Four in Hand
A few months ago while I sat in Lima’s Plaza Mayor, a group of school children approached to ask some questions for their English class. After the standard name, age, location questions came “what do you miss about home?” The kids were clearly expecting me to answer friends and family. I should have answered friends and family. But oh no, on this occasion I chose the great British pub. With every word I could see their growing looks of disgust and before I could my finish my ode, they had all run off.
Shortly after the above incident I started planning my time in Oz. I wanted to work somewhere quintessentially Australian that didn’t necessarily involve a re-enactment of I’m a Celebrity, or eating the animals on their country crest (although after our whooping in the cricket I certainly wouldn’t mind a decent kangaroo steak as retribution). So when fellow food writer Lara Dunston, of the excellent Grantourismo, informed me pub grub was a huge part of the Sydney eating experience I couldn’t have been happier to get stuck in behind the scenes of a home from home. On her recommendation I contacted Four in Hand, a Paddington based boozer, where I had heard executive chef Colin Fassnidge serves the best pub food in town.
As far as grand entrances go, Colin arrived in manner befitting of his recent GQ man of the year award (an accolade which has of course formed the centre of many jokes in the kitchen — after all, which head chef wouldn’t get some stick for being described as “good-looking and effusive with a cheeky, almost girlish giggle”)? I was delicately taking the skin off some skate with my filleting knife when Colin walked in, made a little incision and ripped the skin off in one swift tug. Like. A. Boss.
Admittedly I was a little nervous about working with Colin. I had heard tempers can get quite heated in the kitchen and service began with shouts of “when I ring the service bell four f**king times, you f**king run”. But I always got the impression this was a dose of tough love. Colin also went out of his way to get me involved in the Four in Hand kitchen, making sure that I didn’t just stand there taking notes, but actually picked up some culinary skills. It wasn’t long before he had me butchering pigs and making black pudding.