Critic Roundup: Dining that Tickles the Funny Bone
The stars aligned around the country — and in London as well — this week in the world of restaurant criticism. Critics across the board could find at least something positive to say about the establishments they reviewed, and in nearly every case, they bestowed a glowing rundown accompanied by multiple stars or high marks.
Pete Wells of The New York Times was clearly pleased by both chef Frédéric Duca’s and sommelier Arnaud Tronche’s offerings at Racines NY, injecting a great deal of light-hearted humor into his review, such as the self-deprecating quip, “the menu is meant for dining, not snacking. Nor for sharing, either, although my attempt to keep my fork out of my wife’s plateful of whole, warm Oregon morels on a pool of half-liquid burrata failed miserably.”
The Washington Post’s Tom Sietsema enjoyed chef José Andrés’s America Eats Tavern, which was a pop-up concept in Penn Quarter for a year, now permanently installed in the Ritz-Carlton. The original concept boasted menus filled with the history behind featured dishes and ingredients, but Sietsema is glad that the reboot has left its history textbook at home: “Did Martha Washington really use cocoa nibs to decorate her chocolate cake? Does anyone but a historian care? The dessert, said to be the first FLOTUS’s recipe, is a wedge of moist, rich satisfaction.”
Restaurant Critic Roundup: 7/24/14
Georgean’s Caribbean Soul