New York Times’ Pete Wells Delivers Three Stars to Midtown Japanese Restaurant

The Hell’s Kitchen yakatori specializes in chicken

After a long string of two star reviews, Wells slings three.

Let’s go on an exploration of the chicken with Pete Wells at Torishin. At this Hell’s Kitchen yakatori restaurant, each part of the bird – from neck to oysters – is skewered and grilled to perfection.

In the hands of the attentive chefs at Torishin, this technique produces something beyond convenience. Cooked separately, each part has a different pleasure to offer. Some you chew, and some you crackle. Some have cerebral appeal, others call to instinct.

Wells is charmed by the new iteration of the restaurant, which moved to its current digs in 2015. The previous space on the lower Upper East Side served the same skewers but lacking a certain sparkle. Now there’s charm even to the “knee gristle” skewer.

In addition an array of dining options will suit any diner: from the a la carte choices to the $150 omakase.

…to experience Torishin you don’t need to spend $150 and a couple of hours. Just a few skewers are enough to expand your sense of what’s possible in the department of chicken.


Now, all you have to do is drag yourself to 53rd and 9th.