To say that Kyma Flatiron (15 W. 18th St), an airy and golden-accented ode to the sun-drenched Greek Islands, is an apt homage to the salt-bleached and sun-kissed islands that Greece is known for is to speculate, as I have never been there.
However, what I can say is that the space itself is gorgeous, the food is delicious, and the hospitality is something to write home about.
Vegans may want to sit towards the front, by the bar, as a marble fish display at the rear of the main dining room is extremely hard to miss: fresh lobster, giant tiger shrimp, langoustines, black sea bass, swordfish, pink snapper, oysters, and other underwater delicacies are as much a centerpiece of the room as the flower arrangements, pottery, and gold decor. Housed within each alcove is a collection of authentic Greek pottery and ceramics dating back decades—some even centuries—are all sourced from flea markets and abandoned alleyways throughout Athens and its environs. Decorative gargoyle-like akrokerama, meant to protect the home from bad luck in Ancient Greece, are mounted within, as are small olive trees andpitharia usually reserved for storing olive oil.
Christou helms the menu, which features numerous beloved Greek specialties, such as Pikilia with a choice of tzatziki, spicy feta, skordalia, hummus, taramosalata, and melitzanosalata; Saganaki of crispy kefalograviera with lemon spoon sweet; Rhodes Island Stuffed Calamari with four Greek cheeses; Sesame Feta with ﬁg jam; and Spanakopita with leeks and feta, served with herbed yogurt.
Several favorites from their Rosyln restaurant location also made the move to Flatiron, including Kyma Chips, crispy slices of zucchini and eggplant, served with tzatziki; Zucchini Keftedes with sumac yogurt; Marinated Swordfish skewered with tomato, onion and bell pepper; and Grilled Lamb Chops with roasted garlic and lemon. Whole fresh fish like lavraki, tsipoura, and more are prepared simply and grilled to perfection with Greek olive oil, fresh herbs, salt, pepper, and lemon. Flourishes such as black garlic, dashi broth, carrot chamomile purée, lobster roe, uni butter, and bottarga punctuate the menu as well.