At Kismet, your culinary destiny may come in the form of rabbit kebabs
I once spent a week tailing the band Hanson, three teenage boys who had grown up on an island where the only pop available to them was from Time Life rock ’n’ roll anthologies, 1957-69. And the music they made reflected it — their songs were the products of people who had thought deeply about Bobby Darin but had never heard Led Zeppelin or LL Cool J. And sometimes I think about Hanson when I’m sitting down to dinner at Kismet, the new quasi-Middle Eastern restaurant on Los Feliz’s southern edge.
It’s not because the sleek dining room is old-fashioned — the plant-filled Midcentury Modern groove could not be more present-day Los Angeles — or because its customers, who all look like recent Wesleyan grads, are anything less than yoga-toned and chic. The menu, surpassingly light and vegetable-intensive, has the carefully layered flavors, the touches of heat, tartness and herbal intensity that we have grown to expect from the best new kitchens. The aesthetic of co-chefs Sara Kramer and Sarah Hymanson, whom you may know from Madcapra in Grand Central Market if not from their former restaurant Glasserie out by Brooklyn’s Pulaski Bridge, is up-to-date.