Whites From Italy
Opening a bottle of white wine from Marco Felluga or Alois Lageder is always like welcoming an old friend to the table — and in a way, that's just what it is, as I have reviewed dozens of bottles from each and have visited both of their wineries in Italy.
Felluga is located in the Collio region, not far from the Adriatic and next door to Slovenia. Lageder is a bit more inland, resting in the foothills of the Dolomite mountains in Alto Adige. One thing that both have in common is the friendly fruitiness of their wines, which is paired with great freshness and acidity that makes them both so food-compatible.
Here are seven from the most recent vintages available:
Alois Lageder "Dolomiti" pinot bianco 2013 ($14). The wine shows pinot softness, but with some pleasant herbal qualities and prickly, lightly tannic edges.
Tenutae Lageder "Porer" Alto Adige pinot grigio 2013 ($25). Lively and lean with good apple flavors and lots of savory dried spiciness. Quite nice and should appeal to gin lovers.
Alois Lageder "Haberle" Alto Adige pinot bianco 2013 ($23). Creamy and floral, full-bodied, although with enough acidity for a crisp finish with some apple peel spiciness.
Marco Felluga "Montgris" Collio pinot grigio 2013 ($18). Very smooth and elegant, with soft pear and ginger flavors, but with enough acidity to give it structure.
Marco Felluga "Molamatta" Collio bianco 2012 ($23). Very rounded and honeyed, with enjoyable, juicy tropical fruits, including pineapple.
Marco Felluga Russiz Superiore Collio sauvignon 2013 ($28). Very lively; somewhat light in body with rich flavors and texture. Gamey and spicy — enjoyable by the glass or with food.
This article was originally published March 20, 2015