Bill Boggs Corner Table: Bostwick's Chowder House

What happens in this restaurant scenario?

The co-owners, Christopher Eggert, an excellent chef, and Kevin Boles, a very creative bartender, need to move their popular restaurant from East Hampton's Three Mile Harbor area. They've found a spot they like on the main route from East Hampton to Montauk.

They have a major celebrity following with clients like Bobby Flay, Giada Di Laurentiis, Jack Nicholson, Jimmy Fallon, Alec Baldwin, and Sara Jessica Parker. (I could drop more names, but that's enough to give you the idea).

The new location is terrific, BUT town zoning restricts them from having a dishwashing machine! What do they do? They serve the best food I've ever had on paper plates and pour wines into plastic cups, and no one cares because it's top notch and perfectly done; casual, beachy, and it delivers the goods.

There is an irresistible selection of inventive cocktails from bartender Boles: "Grapefruit Nirvana," with Finlandia grapefruit vodka, organic algae nectar and a splash of lemonade; the "Bostwick Breeze," with Mt.Gay rum, Malibu rum, pineapple juice, and a float of grenadine; the "Main Beach Martini," with New Amsterdam coconut vodka, organic agave nectar, lime, and pineapple juice; and a delightful white peach sangria. My favorite is the "Premium Blood Orange Margarita," with premium Milagro Silver Tequila, Solerno blood orange liqueur, Napa Valley blood orange purée, and lime.  

On another visit, I discovered the Wolffer Estate Rose Table Wine 2013, which is light and dry with just a touch of sweetness. It's a perfect accompaniment to the seafood selections that are the core of Bostwick's compact menu.

The chowders include Manhattan and New England clam, lobster bisque, and corn. The raw bar is excellent, and like the rest of the menu, well-priced for the Hamptons. Among the fish taco selections, I recommend the zesty Tuna Polk, with soy and sesame-marinated raw tuna, mango salsa, shredded cabbage, cilantro, and guacamole. Heading the list of rolls and sandwiches is Bostwick's generously portioned lobster roll, a one-proud tribute to the New England classic. There is also a clam roll, a crab cake sandwich, and an oyster po' boy with shredded cabbage, pickles, and a perfect touch of remoulade sauce. Noteworthy at $10.00 is their cheeseburger — a bargain for the Hamptons where I've seen others of equal merit priced twice as high. 

Their entrées are all fish dishes ranging from broiled local flounder and broiled Montauk sea scallops to seafood pasta and crab-stuffed flounder. The market-priced steamed lobsters are a big draw, and the menu also offers seven different fried seafood platters. A clam bake with a lobster size of your choice includes steamed clams, mussels, and corn on the cob. Because of its location, relationship with local fisherman, and the volume of business, you can count on absolutely fresh fish. 

And then there is the "Guppy Menu," which is fortunately devoid of actual guppies, but features a few well-priced items for children and light-eating adults: broiled flounder, chicken breast, fish and chips, and, yes, hot dogs, if your spawn are incapable of digesting anything else.

I've made multiple trips to Bostwick's in the past few months and have never been the least bit disappointed. Sometimes we eat outside, or at the bar inside or at a corner table I like by the window. The place has a great vibe, friendly service, and it serves wonderful food and drinks. And then there's the hot fudge sundae...