2 Days To Dine In Paris

Paris doesn't really need an introduction. It's a beautiful city with amazing architecture, culture, and of course, food. I've been to Paris a few times in the past five years, and I have fallen in love with it every single time. It's a great city just to wander in; you'll come across some of the best hidden gems that way. But of course, you do need to see the Eiffel Tower at least once (just be prepared for some major lines if you want to go up to the top), and the Louvre is also a must. Other popular sites are the Arc de Triomphe and the Champs-Élysées, Notre-Dame, Jardins de Luxembourg and Jardins de Tuileries, L'Opera, and the Musée d'Orsay. Located in an old train station, and more manageable than the Lovure, the Musée d'Orsay is my favorite museum in Paris.

The last time I was in Paris, I had the pleasure of staying in Saint-Germain-des-Prés in the sixth arrondissement. This is by far my favorite neighborhood in Paris. There are great boutique hotels, shopping, cafés, patisseries, bars, and narrow, winding roads filled with pedestrians or cyclists carrying baguettes (yes, that's a real thing). I stayed at Hôtel Villa Saint Germain des Prés, which is a recently renovated boutique hotel in a perfect location. The rooms were a nice size and the service was amazing; I would definitely stay there again. A friend stayed in an apartment she found through Airbnb, which is a great way to really experience the culture of the city, and is often less expensive than most hotels. For example, one of the highest-end hotels in the city, the Four Seasons Hotel George V, can cost more than €1,000 per night. While it is one of the most beautiful hotels I've ever seen, I'd rather sleep in one of the city's Mercedes taxis and spend all of my money on food.

Speaking of, no matter what you do or where you stay, there are some restaurants and markets you have to visit.

Where to Eat:

Semilla: Located in Saint-Germain, this contemporary bistro is the newest addition to a group of popular restaurants owned by Juan Sanchez and Drew Harré (Fish, Cosi, La Dernière Goutte). While the menu is mainly French, there is some Spanish influence as well; a reflection of the owners' nationalities. While wandering the streets one day, my husband spotted Semilla and we decided to try it that night. Without a reservation, we went a little early (for Paris), around 7 p.m. We were seated at the bar because the restaurant was fully booked. I noticed a counter with stools overlooking the open chef's kitchen, which you can, and should, reserve if you have the opportunity. But even at the bar, we loved everything about this place; the atmosphere, the service, and the food were all perfect. The menu changes daily, and it includes a selection of small plates and main plates, so it's great for sharing. We started with a dorade ceviche with avocado, grapefruit, lime, and chile. It was one of the best ceviches we had ever tasted. The fish was fresh and soft, and the flavors were perfectly balanced; citrusy and salty but not overpowering, and the spice added the perfect kick. We also tried the aubergine fritters, expertly fried eggplant with a delicious roasted red pepper sauce. And finally, the pièce de résistance, a massive, dry-aged côte de boeuf served with jus, and a side of mashed potatoes. The steak was cooked perfectly (charred on the outside, medium-rare on the inside), and it wasn't over-seasoned, allowing the flavor of the meat to shine through. It was probably some of the best steak I've ever had. And the potatoes were actually a bowl of melted French butter and cream with a little potato purée stirred in. And as Ina Garten would say, how bad can that be?

Septime: A 30-minute walk from Notre Dame, this restaurant is part of the newest generation of Paris eateries, sometimes referred to as the "neo-bistro." Instead of the classical French, formal dining experience, both the food and the service are a little more relaxed. They serve lunch and dinner; both menus are small and change daily. Everything here is delicious and expertly prepared, and relatively inexpensive for Paris prices. You can make reservations for both lunch and dinner, although they are very difficult to obtain; so try and book well in advance.

L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon: Perhaps one of the most well-known restaurants (and chefs) in Paris, this place is an institution. It is the priciest of the restaurants on this list, but €199 gets you a 10-course tasting menu, including high-end items like foie gras, caviar, and truffles on a few of the dishes. The décor is slightly dated, but you'll quickly forget about that. There are no tables in the restaurant; instead, everyone is seated on comfortable bar stools at a counter that surrounds the open chef's kitchen. So, you'll be busy watching as your food is prepared. And, the food is not only incredibly delicious, but the presentation is absolutely amazing.

Experience:

Marché Mouffetard: Open every morning from Tuesday through Sunday, this market is one of the most beautiful street markets in the city. Many of the vendors only sell organic and/or fair-trade goods, including fruits and vegetables, charcuterie, pâtés, cheeses, and pastries. Hemingway even wrote about it in A Moveable Feast, describing it as a "wonderful, narrow crowded market street." Need I say more?

Rue Montorgueil: This quaint street is lined with rotisseries, cheese shops, fishmongers, patisseries, and cafés. Among the patisseries is Patisserie Stohrer, the oldest pastry shop in Paris. In 1864, a French painter decorated the interior, and the beautifully painted ceiling is still intact. Stop in for Stohrer's invention, a Baba au Rhum. When you've had your fill, wander around the neighborhood until you're hungry again, then walk over to the nearby Frenchie bar à vins (wine bar) for delicious bar snacks and wine.

Ladurée: This place is most famous for macarons, and you can stop in to one of the five locations in Paris to get your fix. The flagship Champs-Élysées location is probably the most popular, but the smaller, quieter Saint-Germain location is my choice (it also happens to be located right across the street from the Hotel La Villa, mentioned earlier). If macarons aren't your thing, Ladurée also sells a variety of French pastries and chocolates. While there are locations popping up in other European cities and some American cities as well, some would say buying a macaron from Ladurée in Paris is the ultimate Parisian pastry experience.

Sidewalk Cafés: While you're in Paris you must stop at one of the thousands of sidewalk cafés, sit at a table outside, and people-watch. Any café in any location will do, as long as it's not in a super touristy area. You can have breakfast or lunch, or just sit with a coffee; no one will rush you either way. There is nothing more relaxing, or more essential to the Parisian cultural experience, than this.

One interesting thing I learned while in Paris is that the word "pomme" means both "apple" and "potato," depending on the context in which it's used. I noticed this while eating the pomme purée (mashed potatoes) at Semilla, and enjoying a delicious piece of tart aux pomme (apple tart) in a French patisserie later that day. The tart inspired me to make my own version when I got home.

Allison Stone is a trained pastry chef, caterer, and writer. Follow her at @bakingstoneny, and check out her Facebook page.