On a hurried walk down Jefferson Street in Bushwick, Brooklyn, you might miss the low-profile entrance to Faro, a restaurant that focuses on locally sourced ingredients and expertly crafted cocktails, but this is one spot that deserves a second look. The recently renovated space is marked by a large wall of windows, which delivers plenty of natural light into the area that once stored works of art owned by MoMA. Today the space is home to another form of art.
Owners Kevin and Debbie Adey opened Faro’s doors in early May of this year, but the concept was clear long before then. Adey, the former Northeast Kingdom chef, capitalizes on both his 20 years of experience in the business and his connections with local farmers. He attributes much of his culinary success to the highest quality and freshest ingredients he can find, and Faro’s constantly rotating menu is evidence of that — since opening, Faro’s menu has changed almost weekly. There are some staples that remain, but many of the dishes center entirely around the best ingredients available.
On two separate visits about a month apart, half the menu featured new dishes, but the underlying theme remained. On any visit you can expect dishes that center around pasta that’s made in-house, the freshest protein, and the most interesting combinations of ingredients that just work. If there’s one theme at Faro, it’s that everything, from the handmade cutlery to the squid ink chitarra, is made with the utmost intention.
A meal at Faro wouldn’t be complete without a cocktail and the summer options are incredibly refreshing. Rum-lovers should go out on a limb and try the Airmail, a bubbly option that combines honey, lemon, sparkling wine, and rum. The Archangel is another great option that combines dry gin, Contratto, and cucumber to yield a notably stronger taste. A personal favorite, though, is an off-menu option called Charo’s Kick; it’s a spin on a Cameron’s Kick that features tequila, mescal, lemon, and orgeat — a perfect summer cocktail.
In the spacious dining room that overlooks the kitchen, chef Adey is putting together surprising combinations, like local asparagus and crabmeat in butter, at affordable prices. Nothing on the menu exceeds $20, but keep in mind the dishes are on the small side, so order a few items and share.
The bucatini is a top-notch fixture on the menu with noodles cooked to perfection, fresh chicken and the perfect amount of chili seasoning, while the Mushroom Bolognese is a heavier dish with only a few bits of mushroom. Of the protein options, the Mallard Duck Breast is fresh and exceptional.
Faro is open seven days a week from 6 to 11 p.m. and is a great option for an elegant dinner at a reasonable price. Visit with a group to try a little bit of everything or take a date who doesn’t mind splitting dessert.