The NoMad Cookbook
Daniel Humm and Will Guidara — the Miles Davis-loving team behind Eleven Madison Park, the three Michelin-starred restaurant in New York City’s Flatiron District — have come out with a new cookbook, and this one focuses on The NoMad, their more relaxed second restaurant, meant to feel welcoming to the whole of Manhattan.
Where Eleven Madison Park looked to Miles Davis for inspiration, The NoMad — EMP’s “louder and looser sibling” — invokes the Rolling Stones.
By the time The NoMad began coming into its own, Guidara writes, “Uptown and downtown kids were colliding here, as we had hoped they would. The cool kids from downtown and Brooklyn were sitting next to the Upper East Siders and the salary men. Famous chefs guzzled cocktails and movie stars grazed salads. Gastronomes constructed multicourse dinners while jetsetters had a snack and a glass of wine.”
And so, it was time for a cookbook.
While plenty of the dishes in this book — beef carpaccio with foie gras and porcini mushrooms, lobster poached with snap peas and morels, suckling pig confit with pickled apricots, and sweetbreads — will require the fortitude and bravery of a cook with a love for layered meals and a lot of time on their hands, other dishes are simple enough to tackle with not too much prep. A snack of radishes dipped in butter and fleur de sel, for example, is elegant enough to make you feel like a masterful chef.
Roast chicken, which chef Humm takes quite seriously, is shown off in four versions, to keep the dish seasonal. The most famous version features black truffle brioche stuffing, and has been the subject of serious adoration by Pete Wells, the New York Times restaurant critic.
One small recipe that you would be wise to memorize forever is for crispy chicken skin, which Humm suggests you add on top of the roast chicken, but has endless applications.
Then, after a few pages of basics in the back of the book — lobster stock, garlic clam stock, yogurt sauce—The NoMad Cookbook quietly turns into a cocktail collection, with names like the Cease and Desist, the Gotham Parksider, and the Jungle Bird — but you’ll have to get your hands on a copy to learn their identities.
The NoMad Cookbook is available in stores and online now.