Last Call For Holiday Bubblies

'Tis the season for sparkling wines, as much a part of the holidays and New Year season as fruitcake, rum punch, and holiday ham — and we've tasted a dozen of them.

Here is the fourth and final review of holiday sparkling wines; it's now all up to you to choose which ones you'll pop to toast the New Year and ring in the holidays of your choice. There is quite a range of choices here — sparkling wines from America's East and West Coasts, bubblies from the prosecco and lambrusco regions of Italy, and a trifecta of fizz from France: Limoux, Alsace, and granddaddy Champagne itself.

Adami "Col Credas" Valdobbiadene prosecco superiore brut 2013 ($17)

Green fruitiness with lots of minerality, very fine bubbles, and long, penetrating, refreshing finish.

NV Adami "Garbel" Treviso prosecco brut ($16)

Quite floral, a little tangy, good body, and, as always with an Adami wine, a great finish.

NV Lamberti prosecco extra dry ($12)

Pastel fruitiness, lots of bubbles and cream and a good texture — rich and filling.

NV Biltmore Estate blanc de blanc brut ($25)

North Carolina's Biltmore makes wines from grapes it grows and buys locally as well as those from California. I could find no heritage on this label, so it is most likely a southern comfort — pleasant apple-pear flavors, clean-tasting yet not as delicate as most blanc de blancs.

NV Cleto Chiarli Vecchia Modena premium lambrusco secco ($16)

A red bubbly — fruity with quince and apple flavors, yet light with a good finish.

NV Napa Mumm brut prestige ($19)

Complex flavors of dried strawberries, tingling yeastiness and flaky toast. Good structure and a crisp, minerally finish.

NV Mumm Napa reserve rosé brut ($20)

Tart red fruit flavors and a pleasant metallic finish — not as long or as elegant as the white.

NV L'Agapé "Emotion" cremant d'Alsace brut ($17). Bready, milled wheat aromas with creamy flavors of crushed white grapes. It does need more structure — a soft middle palate and a short finish.

2011 Saint-Hilaire Blanquette de Limoux semi-sweet ($12)

Sweet sparklers, I think, have a more limited range of appeal than drier ones, but this is a nice one — almond cookies with lots of mousse and a soft finish.

NV Laurent-Perrier Champagne brut ($45)

Big and bold apple flavors up front with a lemony finish. A firm, muscular, young Champagne that grabs your attention — and holds it.

NV Laurent-Perrier Champagne rosé brut ($73)

Another firm wine, yet very seductive and charming. Excellent creamy red fruits with a rich and satisfying finish.