Birth of a Vineyard
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The Burgundians are fond of the word climat, which, in essence, is a small vineyard definable only by the sky above and the earth below and the vines in between. As a wine writer, I have been privileged to walk in some of the world’s most-famous climats, such as Le Montrachet and Clos Vougeot, and to see them as the farmer sees them and then to drink wine from them made by that farmer or someone in her or his family. It’s a thrilling experience.
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