An American Bistro Where Brunch Comes with an Imagination

An American Bistro Where Brunch Comes with an Imagination

Sunday brunch isn’t really an original concept, especially not in New York City. Regardless, it's a meal that gets people together at the tail end of a busy weekend for some indecisive (breakfast or lunch?) eating; often, much needed drinking; and good times. So was the story of a typical double date at Lexington Brass, a new American bistro at the spanking-new Hyatt 48 Lex.

From the group that brought New Yorkers venues like the old-school steak joint Abe & Arthur’s and the newly opened seafood spot Catch, EMM remains firm in their grasp on classic American fare with Lexington Brass. They kept things a bit rustic in the décor department and chose an ideal location in East Midtown for suit-types to meet for early breakfasts and power lunches.

As it was a weekend, we decided on a relaxed, power-free meal and left the suits at home. Our foursome has a strong stance on not ordering any of the same dishes, but we had to cave in this one instance. The jelly-doughnut pancakes went to two of us, who couldn’t settle on anything else that sounded equally as enticing. A staple cheeseburger with truffle fries, a mushroom omelette, and a bakery basket to share rounded out the rest of our order, as well some bellini’s, bloody marys, and on-tap kombucha.

It turned out that the go-to items were the best choice. The burger — juicy and topped with thick sliced bacon and a mound of melted Cheddar, was a huge hit. The omelette, another easy decision —stuffed with porcini mushrooms and gruyère — was flavor-packed alongside peppered home fries. The jelly-doughnut pancakes, however, though high in inspiration were too ambitious, with a jam-overloaded center that made them soggy and far too sweet. The bakery basket scored as a starter, with enough flaky croissants, warmed cranberry muffins, and homemade jam to go around. As for the truffle fries, the rule applies — there’s really no going wrong when there’s truffle involved.

We decided, unanimously, that the minor fluke that was the jelly-doughnut pancakes was merely a result of the restaurant’s three week-old kitchen and we'll surely give them another try in due time. Otherwise, the suits can keep their weekday power-lunches and we’ll take brunch at the new-but-good-Lexington Brass.

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