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Yes, of course, José Andrés understands the food of his native Spain, probably better than anyone in America — but he also understands food, period, so it's not surprising that when he undertook to create a restaurant specializing in the cuisines of the Eastern Mediterranean, and specifically of Turkey, Greece, and Lebanon, he'd figure it out pretty quickly, and pretty well. In Zaytinya's airy, blue-haloed white-walled dining room, tables are crowded with hummus, taramosalata, and tabouleh, Turkish flatbreads and stuffed grape leaves, lamb in myriad forms, octopus Santorini style, grilled veal breast, grilled chicken skewers with sumac and onions amongst a whole anthology of savory delights.