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Credit: @ Amanda Hesser
Amanda Hesser is a Times food columnist and author of Cooking for Mr. Latte. Her most recent cookbook is The Essential New York Times Cookbook.
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I was taken by the addition of Sauternes in the cooking broth and the specification of olive oil from Lucca in the vinaigrette—long before the age of competitive ingredient fetishes. In the recipe’s defense, it is such a simple dish that you...
You probably would never have guessed that Alice Waters and her “delicious revolution” crossed paths with Craig Claiborne and his butter counterreformation, but indeed they did. In 1981, Claiborne, who covered most of the twentieth...