Lexington Brass Gets it Right

At the newbie American bistro, brunch means classic fare and a hint of imagination.
Staff Writer
Lexington Brass Gets it Right

Francesca Borgognone

Sunday brunch isn’t really an original concept, especially not in New York. Regardless, it gets people together at the tail end of a busy weekend and on the cusp of an even more hectic week for some indecisive (breakfast or lunch?) eating, much needed drinking, and good times. So was the story of a typical double date at Lexington Brass, a new American bistro at the spanking new Hyatt 48 Lex.

From the group that brought you wonder hits like old-school steak joint Abe & Arthur’s and simple seafood spot Catch, EMM remains firm in their grasp on classic Americana fare with Lexington Brass. They kept it a bit rustic in décor and perfectly located in East Midtown for those early breakfasts and power lunches for suit-types.

Being a weekend, we decided on a relaxed, power-free meal and left the suits at home. Deemed a foursome, our group has a strong stance on not ordering any of the same dishes, but we had to cave on this one instance.  The jelly donut pancakes went to two of us that couldn’t settle on anything else that sounded equally as enticing. A staple cheeseburger with truffle fries, a mushroom omelet, and a bakery basket to share scattered the rest of our table as well some Bellini’s, Bloody Marys, and on-tap Kombucha.

Apparently, the go-to items were the best choice. The burger—juicy and topped with thick sliced bacon and a mound of melted cheddar, was a huge hit. The omelet, another easy decider—stuffed with porcini and gruyere was flavor packed alongside peppered home fries. The jelly donut pancakes, however, though high in inspiration—were too ambitious with a jam overloaded center that made it soggy and crazy sweet. The bakery basket was a starter score with enough flaky croissants, warmed cranberry muffins, and homemade jam to go around. As for the truffle fries, the rule applies—there’s really no going wrong when there’s truffle involved.

 We decided, unanimously, that the minor fluke that was the jelly donut pancakes was merely a result of the restaurant’s three week old kitchen and will give them another try in due time. Otherwise, the suits can keep their weekday power-lunches and we’ll take brunch at newy-but-goody-Lexington Brass.

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