Photo courtesy of Jeff Zalaznick
Between Mustard’s Grill and more recently, Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen, Chef and restaurateur Cindy Pawlcyn, has been veteran of Napa Valley for more than 25 years. In 2006, Pawlcyn joined partners Ken Tominaga and Sean Knight to create Go Fish, an unpretentious St. Helena foray into West Coast seafood, which many hoped would fill a niche the area has surprisingly lacked: sushi. Executive Chef Victor Scargle’s menu ranges from sushi and sweet shrimp macaroni and cheese, to raw bar and cioppino. The kitchen draws on the restaurant’s garden, which is supplemented with regional produce and fish flown in fresh daily.
Pawlcyn’s restaurant certainly fills a void. Special care is taken to make the food visually appealing— even the edamame looks beautiful. But this cuisine has still not been done with the precision and expertise the area still deserves. When it comes to sushi in the Valley, unfortunately, the name ‘Go Fish’ is a sage piece of advice.
: Special Lobster Roll
Note: This location is now closed. It is to be replaced by Pawlcyn's newest endeavor, Brassica. — Arthur Bovino, 8/10/2011