This Is What 2 Stars From The New York Times Looks Like
Forget that on a recent visit, the soup dumplings were gummy, the shrimp dumplings were pedestrian, and that the spicy crispy beef should make anyone wonder whose grandmother named the dish on the menu. (Flavor that "goes to 11"? You need to ask for a cup of the house hot sauce to call that spicy.) After all, the pork ribs special was a pretty tasty rendition of the clichéd takeout Chinese we all grew up on, right?
What's most interesting is the shout-out to Blinky, Pinky, Inky, and Clyde, "spectral shrimp dumplings in blue, pink, yellow, and white," served with a sweet potato tempura Pac-Man with a blueberry eye.
"It's playful," some might note. "Don't be so serious," others might argue. "It's just garnish!" ardent defenders might say. Playfulness is all well and fine. Clever presentation should be encouraged. Sure, there's some joking and cross-cultural references going on here — pastrami spring rolls and all. But really, sweet potato tempura with a blueberry eye sitting in a bed of unseasoned guacamole with corn in it, at a Chinese restaurant? Corn? This is creativity?
On a recent Sunday, the place was packed as always, and there were no Asian people in the restaurant (take away from that what you will). As the critic noted, the restaurant, "has been tailored to a Western palate," and whether or not you agree with the merits of RedFarm's cuisine, it seems New Yorkers (now with the help of the city's new critic) can look forward to takeout-friendly RedFarms around the city.
"Hey, he's the critic! If he thinks it's a two-star restaurant, that's his call," sings the culinary chorus. Indeed.
New Yorkers, this is how your new two-star restaurants look:
‘Pac-Man’ Shrimp Dumplings at RedFarm.
It's interesting to compare reviews, number of stars, and restaurant review choices across the tenures of the last three critics. If not a conclusive analysis, it does reveal a few things.
Ten-deep into Bruni's first reviews (if this virtual finger-filing through the archives is correct), New York City netted three three-star restaurants, three two-star restaurants, and four one-star restaurants, and that included three-star reviews for Blue Hill, Babbo, and Bouley. How's that for an entrance? Not bad.
Frank Bruni's Freshman 10
Bruni's successor, Sam Sifton, gave his first 11 New York City restaurants one three-star review, three two-star reviews, five one-star reviews, and two no-star reviews. Like Wells, Sifton also got to a Chodorow restaurant in his first 10 reviews, though he did one better, squeezing two reviews in one. The rest of the restaurants in his first grouping included places like DBGB, Marea, and A Voce Columbus.
Sam Sifton's Freshman 10
• Aureole, 11/11/2009 (1 star)
A Kiss to the United States of Burgers, Fries and Sugar
What does it all mean? Well, the restaurants in the freshman 10 for both Bruni and Sifton arguably featured several more ambitious restaurants by bigger name chefs. Did Sifton grab all the good ones before he departed his post, not leaving the following critic any similar spots to hit up? Well, you be the judge. But right now, Il Buco Alimentari is on the same footing as Marea, Babbo, and Blue Hill. And RedFarm's Pac-Man guacamole with corn? Well, it's just a step below.
Arthur Bovino is the senior editor for The Daily Meal. Click here to follow Arthur on Twitter.