The desire to sneak away from pushy outdoor crowds and snuggle up for a bit in front of a fireplace is a somewhat constant one during a New York City winter (seventy degree December days perhaps not included). Finding a spot in front of that coveted toasty fire can sometimes be tricky, but The Lambs Club is home to a large, flickering fireplace in its dining room full of cozy leather banquettes. Chef Geoffrey Zakarian's winter menu is the epitome of upscale comfort food, a Modern American eatery, combining old fashioned dining with a modern twist on menu items: a welcome treat to New Yorkers desperate for some culinary solice in these brutal winter months.
After selecting a cocktail, start warming up with the Lambs Club's homemade bread, a noteworthy loaf served with the type of rich butter almost designed to trick you into filling up before dinner. But leave room; petite and savory Madeleines, served warm, dissolve in your mouth with each bite of the pastry filled with matsutake mushrooms, adding a rich, comforting umami flavor.
Start your meal with torchon of foie gras, topped with a quince gelee and best enjoyed with slices of the accompanying buckwheat crepe ($24). For more winter warmth, autumn squash soup is topped with ginger marshmallows. poached pears, cranberries, and cashew ($16), combining the sweet and savory flavors of the holidays into a rich gift for your mouth.
And speaking of gifts, The Lambs Club's specials are not to be passed over. A recent dish of homemade gnocchi with artichoke hearts in crab butter, topped with freshly shaved white truffle (market price) was a celebration of all that is rich, hearty, and decadent, the type of dish you want on a gloomy frozen day.
Another hearty option is the loin of lamb with harissa and dates, and topped with roasted heirloom carrots ($42). The tender, juicy round of meat is well-paired with a creative side of fluffy pistachio sponge cake, an amusing yet enjoyable pairing of flavors and textures.
A lighter option exists with the crispy skin corvina, served with rich smoked trout roe, braised leek, potato confit, and a creamy velouté de poisson ($30). The fish is supremely crispy, allowing it to best complement the creme fraiche suace and pops of flavor in savory roe.
For dessert, a daily selection of petites fours ($10) is the way to go. Seasonal specials like gingerbread macarons and rich chocolate truffles add a last few bites of rich, sugary goodness before you realize how cozy and stuffed you truly are.