“Bottomless brunch” is a term that conjures up some negative connotations, but at L&W Oyster Co., the quirky, narrow oyster bar just north of Madison Square in New York City that’s run by the same team as the nearby Almond, it’s fun, spirited, and complemented by some fantastic food. We had the opportunity to dine there recently at the invitation of the restaurant, and it should be on the radar of anyone looking for a seafood-inspired brunch destination.
The $29 brunch comes with bottomless Bloody Marys and mimosas for two hours, and main course options include surf and turf Benedict with Colorado lamb bacon and lobster roe hollandaise, duck confit hash, shrimp and grits, “angry” crab benedict with a spicy avocado crabcake, bay shrimp omelette with avocado and fontina, blackberry French toast, and a veggie omelette. The shrimp and grits were creamy and the shrimp was perfectly cooked, the hash was brimming with crispy duck confit, and the crabcakes in the benedict were at least 90 percent crab. While they’re not included, you should spring for the house-made “Goldfish” crackers — they’re much better than the original. And make sure to sample some oysters; there are usually about six different varieties on offer and they’re certainly not your usual Blue Points.
The servers are attentive and in good spirits, and they make sure to keep the glasses full. As for the space, it’s very narrow — and the booths seat four even though they really only fit two comfortably — but that just adds to the rustic charm of the restaurant. There are a lot of brunch options around, but L&W is bright, lively, the food is great, and you can’t beat unlimited Bloodys and mimosas.