True, John Besh has become a New Orleans institution, but he’s also still one of the most interesting (did you know he was a U.S. Marine?) and ambitious (9 restaurants and counting) chefs in the Crescent City today. The American menu at this splendid eatery, located in a historic 19th century French-Creole building in New Orleans’ Central Business District, shows his love for, and understanding of, French, Italian, and high-level American cuisine, much of it interpreted with a New Orleans lilt. His dishes also usually incorporate the finest local food that the Gulf has to offer; for example, roast pompano with Louisiana blue crab and charred Covey Rise cabbage and Two Run Farm's lamb with parsnip. And if delicious dishes like huitlacoche agnolotti with slow-roasted Sandy Hook rabbit and smoked chiles or crawfish étouffée with lemongrass and fermented pepper sound too heavy, you can always try August's $72 tasting of farmers' market vegetables, which features things like charred broccoli and cauliflower, roast onion and garlic soup, and grapefruit crémeux.
— Arthur Bovino, 101 Best Restaurants, April 1, 2015