The Publican shows what restaurant design can be: This cavernous, high-ceilinged affair, filled with communal seats and warm hanging globes, makes you feel like you’ve simultaneously stepped into a contemporary fine dining establishment and a restaurant out of a Charles Dickens novel. But under chefs Paul Kahan and Cosmo Goss (Brian Huston is branching out on his own), this self-described beer-focused restaurant in the West Loop is much more than ambiance and suds. Aged hams, crispy beef tongue with green goddess dressing, suckling pig with waxman potato, and ham chop "in hay" with rice soubise and spiced peanut are just some of the amazing delicacies you can enjoy, along with a large savory dessert menu to cap off the evening. Beware: the Slagel Family Farm spicy pork rinds are addictive.
— Jess Kapadia, 101 Best Restaurants