Lombardi's (No. 30) may be responsible for "America's first pizza," but as Nick Azzaro, owner of Papa's Tomato Pies, isn't shy about saying, Papa's — established in 1912 — is America's oldest continuously owned, family-owned pizzeria. With more than 100 years under its belt, no wonder Papa’s again made this list of America’s best pies. And the family behind them is key. Why? The recipe has been passed through generations, and survived a 2013 move from Trenton to Robbinsville.
The Azzaro family cooks made-to-order pies customizable in a variety of ways. You can choose between everything from garlic to mushrooms and pepperoni to meatballs, or add anchovies for a salty kick. It’s the tradition that makes this restaurant unique, so you’ll be ordering their signature tomato pie. But because you’ve made the trip, brought friends, and are hungry, you should also really order a Papa's tangy original: the mustard pie.
Yes, yes, it sounds crazy, but don’t you doubt for a second that it works. Forget The Times’ claim that the pepperoni mustard pie tastes a bit too much like a hot dog. Their palates may be a bit too, ahem, “refined.” It tastes less like a hot dog, or any of the over-the-top hybrid creations fast food companies are flinging themselves at, than an unexpected, nuanced creation that shouldn’t work, but does — a brilliant pizza you’ll crave and won’t find anywhere else.
— Arthur Bovino, 101 Best Pizzas in America 2015, 8/6/2015