Trump Grill, home to the world’s most meme-able taco bowl, used to be just another lazily upscale tourist trap. Now, in the wake of the election, it is getting more attention. This week, Vanity Fair skewered the restaurant (sometimes spelled “Trump Grille”), in a takedown review that rivals the sauciness of Pete Wells’ infamous Guy Fieri American Kitchen and Bar review critique (written entirely in rhetorical questions).
“The allure of Trump’s restaurant, like the candidate, is that it seems like a cheap version of rich,” reviewer Tina Nguyen writes. “The inconsistent menus—literally, my menu was missing dishes that I found on my dining partners’—were chock-full of steakhouse classics doused with unnecessarily high-end ingredients…..The menu itself would like to impress diners with how important it is, randomly capitalizing fancy words like “Prosciutto” and “Julienned” (and, strangely, ”House Salad”).”
Trump immediately responded to the scathing review with a dismissive tweet that was a reminder (as if we needed one) of the president-elect’s social media defensiveness whenever he is criticized by a major media outlet:
Has anyone looked at the really poor numbers of @VanityFair Magazine. Way down, big trouble, dead! Graydon Carter, no talent, will be out!
— Donald J. Trump (@realDonaldTrump) December 15, 2016
Oddly enough, Nguyen found that celebrated taco bowl to be the most appetizing part of her meal, though her writing suggested that even it was less than impressive: “The fried shell, meant for one, contained a party-sized amount of lettuce and ground beef suspended in sour cream and “Dago’s famous guacamole”, which NASA might have served in a tube labeled “TACO FILLING” in the early days of the space program.”