For years, our 101 Best Pizza in America list has included brick-and-mortar-less Pizza Moto, despite the fact that the mobile pizza oven lacked a place in New York City to call home. With its new outpost close to opening, it may be time for another unconventional spot to join these ranks: Margot’s. For years, Adam Kuban pizza-blogged for Slice and Serious Eats. Since then, he has perfected his own pizza, launching a weekend bar pie pop-up inside another amazing pizzeria in Brooklyn, Pizza Emily (also on this list).
What is bar pie? In his own words, Kuban describes the best bar pizza joints as “beloved gathering spots that bring together generations and social classes” serving pizza that is very thin-crusted, decidedly crisp, well done but not to the point of being burned, and “large enough to share but small enough you could house one yourself.” In his characteristically humble way, Kuban will likely thank this year’s panel, note the work he still needs to do, and describe the tough road ahead to his own place. True. But bar pizza is overdue for a higher national profile, and Kuban is the man to raise it.
Why? Because you can tell he’s becoming a master at it. Kuban tweaks his pies and his menu with some frequency (there's one called the "Collaboroni" right now, featuring a mash-up of Margot's host restaurant's signature "Colony" toppings: pepperoni, pickled jalapeños, post-oven honey), so it may take a little more time to definitively name one pie his signature. For now, we're leaning toward the Hot Supreme. There’s a hardcover-thin crust, a secret cheese blend, a thin sauce layer, Romano, sausage, pickled jalapeños, and shaved red onions. Man, oh man!
These are well-crafted pizza gems thin enough to fill you, and good enough to have you craving more almost immediately. But good luck getting in. Margot’s is a ticketed pop-up that sells out weeks in advance. Your best shot is to sign up for the email list and hope for an end to its summer hiatus.
— Arthur Bovino, 101 Best Pizzas in America 2015, 8/6/2015