Jason Wu RTW Spring 2014: Sheer and Shimmering Champagnes
You know the feeling of déjà vu? You've seen it somewhere before, you lived this moment, had that conversation, watched this show...At first glance the Jason Wu runway show felt like a case of déjà vu—the 90s all wrapped up and stuffed into one of those large safari pockets hanging off the chest of his beautiful models. Wu's style has always glorified the female form in flattering cuts, colors and fabrics, but this collection wasn't a stand out. The simple color palette of mostly champagne, khaki, black and while felt a little lackluster compared to previous collections, even if there were sequins. Wu told WWD his inspiration for the collection was "sensuality," which was definitely not lacking in his sheer dresses and slip-culotte hybrids.
There was a full sense of symmetry in the collection, with slits running straight down the middle of dresses and skirts, heavy pockets evenly set on both sides of separates, and discrete lace-up detailing. Most pieces were an interesting combination of utility and femininity, but the dresses that stood out were nostalgic of simplistic, skintight 90s dresses (I'm sure they've been in a Calvin Klein ad somewhere before), showing the circular trends of fashion.
Certain spring trends are starting to come into play with this collection, the pale minty aqua color being repeated here as well as the Tadashi Shoji show and the lacing here plays toward the light bondage themes seen at Cushnie et Ochs. The beauty of his designs is in the details, with linear cross-hashing and geometric cutouts that have been seen all over runways for this coming spring.