Italian designers have been channeling the ‘70s with multiple throwback collections during Milan Fashion Week, and it seems that the designs at Emilio Pucci are no different. Peter Dundas presented a collection worthy of the decade with Pucci’s iconic bright colors, mini dresses and prints that reflected a modern take on the provocative aesthetic of the ‘70s. Fringe, crochet, maxi skirts and bedazzled leather were found all over the runway. The collection was meant to be inspired by the colors of the sunset and Dundas’ icons from both past and present.
While models walked with a casual swagger that seemed more fitting for the beaches of California than the Palazzo Serbelloni venue, the detailing gave away the deep-rooted Italian aesthetic. These technical features are something Dundas is known for and this weekend he showed off his expertise in the form of intricate workmanship; macramé, beading, studs and embroidery elevated what was intended to be a laid-back cool girl vibe. Even designs that looked deconstructed with loosely-flowing fabrics and flared silhouettes were finely tailored for a clean, but breezy summer look.
As Dundas was playing with summertime sex appeal with revealing lengths, cutouts (those aren’t going away anytime soon) and sheer materials, it couldn’t hurt for him to have a few leading ladies on the runway including Joan Smalls, Binx Walton and Naomi Campbell (the latter who reportedly joked with the designer at the after party asking what took so long to cast her). And it wasn’t a bad move—the moment Campbell walked onto the runway the iPhones came out and everyone from the front to the back row was snapping photos of the supermodel.
The finale of the runway was a series of evening gowns (or more likely red carpet gowns) that had the color palette of Pucci and a romantic ‘70s silhouette that fluttered with every movement from the models. Sheer panels were layered together giving just a peek at what lay underneath with relaxed, low-cut backs and fitted fronts. It was a youthful collection, channeling the free spirit of ladies in decades gone by with tie-dye prints, suede boots and as much color as Pucci could handle.