Chef Tony Mantuano is already a Chicago legend thanks to his trailblazing Spiaggia, but he’s never been one to rest on his laurels. Case in point: River Roast, which opened in 2014 and is focused, as the name might imply, on roast meats, carved tableside. Fish, roast beef, and rack of pork are all on offer, but it’s the chicken you should seek out. It’s cold-smoked before being roasted over high heat in a steam-injecting oven, which keeps the meat moist and the skin crackling-crisp. It’s served with dramatic flair, upright on a cast iron dish atop a mound of double-cooked, super-crisp potatoes. It tastes exactly as good as it looks.