Don't Miss Meriwether's Restaurant

Meriwether's Restaurant & Skyline Farm is a diamond in the rough, nestled in between the blue-collar industrial district and well-heeled neighborhoods of Northwest Portland. If you happen to be traveling into or out of Portland on Highway 30, you may run into it (still, I'd be impressed if you did, considering it blends into its surroundings nearly as well as the faceless warehouse down the street which serves as the studio for the TV series Grimm). But as is the case with many oddly situated establishments, there is a story behind its setting.

The building that is now Meriwether's was raised at the entrance of the 1905 World's Fair, right next to the Lewis and Clark Exposition (hence, the name Meriwether's). Since its historic erection, the building has worn many faces, from barber shop to French bistro, finally settling into its own as Meriwether's in 2004.

The building itself may have a longstanding reputation for excellence, attracting unbelievable crowds of customers for a Sunday brunch in January, but Meriwether's in particular has one selling point up its sleeve that other restaurants don't: Skyline Farm, an organic farm located 11 miles from Meriwether's, nestled with equal seclusion into the beautiful hills of Northwest Portland.

Saga Briggs

Unlike most restaurants, which must buy entirely from local purveyors in order to uphold a farm-to-table philosophy, Meriwether's can deliver fresh, hand-picked vegetables from its own backyard. And it does, religiously. Produce arrives at the restaurant twice a week, year-round, and a highly qualified and artistically driven staff of chefs and prep cooks transform the freshest vegetables, grains, fruits, herbs, and flowers into unforgettable culinary arrangements. In 2011, the little 5-acre-farm-that-could passed the 15,000-pound mark in mass annual produce served to customers. What began in 2008 as a modest complement to an already-fantastic menu is now the centerpiece of the whole operation.

Meriwether's incorporates Skyline Farm produce into its menu whenever humanly possible. In the fall, you will find chanterelle lasagna, butternut squash folded into creamy risotto, and silky pumpkin pot du crème; in the winter, cabbage and kale spun into soups or lightly floured and fried as garnishes for steaks; in the spring, spring pea risotto with truffle goat cheese, or seared scallops with Skyline Farm fennel; and in the summer, vibrant berry salads followed by beef tenderloin with celeriac gratin. It is a truly impressive feat to bring fresh produce to the table as constantly as Meriwether's has managed to.

More impressive still, in the warmer months, you can enjoy all of this from the beautiful backyard patio and garden, where customers regularly compete for seating. It's a truly relaxing experience to swirl a glass of wine, watch the sun dip below the fir trees, and feel as if at home in a good friend's backyard. Occasionally customers will be denied outdoor seating during the spring or summer, much to their chagrin, because of a private wedding ceremony or business reception. You will need to make reservations well ahead of visiting this restaurant due to its unebbing popularity.

Perhaps most impressive, though, is the fact that Meriwether's has changed its managerial face throughout the years nearly as many times as the building has changed its business, and has still managed to provide the same outstanding dining experience its devoted clientele have come to expect. From the summer of 2011 to the summer of 2013, Meriwether's went through seven managers and three head chefs, if only to prove that its reputation will not be diminished.

Saga Briggs

At Meriwether's, change is good — but only because its staff have learned to keep the important things the same. Only an establishment that is truly comfortable in its own shoes feels inclined to take a risk now and then. This attitude is ultimately something that customers tend to appreciate. The most devoted dining crowds want the best of both worlds: familiarity and a fresh perspective.

On that note, Meriwether's is mixing things up again — and adding a new dimension. Not only are the owners recruiting from within this time around, but they are also introducing a team dynamic to the traditionally solo role of head chef: Josh Steiner and Peter Kuhlman, both former sous chefs at the restaurant, became co-executive chefs in late November.  

The best part of Kuhlman and Steiner's promotion is that it provides, in effect, the best of both worlds for the Meriwether's staff as well: familiarity — both chefs are already known and loved by the staff — and a fresh perspective — offering the waitstaff something new and exciting to pitch to guests.

Last week, The Daily Meal sat down with Steiner and Kuhlman for an inside peek at what's going to change and what will stay the same at one of Portland's favorite dining venues.

The Daily Meal: What was it like to become head chef?

Josh Steiner: Out of the blue, we had a meeting with the owners and Paul [Paul Mitchell, former executive chef], who said he was leaving and recommended us to replace him. We took over in November, so Thanksgiving was our first major event.

TDM: How was that?

JS: (laughing) Stressful. We had to focus on keeping the ship afloat while getting our feet wet.

TDM: What's changed about the menu since you both took over?

Peter Kuhlman: The unique thing about Meriwether's is its farm-to-table philosophy, which hasn't changed and won't. We keep things simple, and source our food from the farm and from local purveyors. We're an American-style bistro that serves Northwest food. Simple and basic.

JS: It's hard to convince people to change their ways. When Earl [Earl Hook, former partner-chef] took over, he standardized things, really defined what it means to be farm-to-table. Earl was the longest-tenured chef. The first year we broke a million was the year he came to us, the year before he became partner-chef.

TDM: So you feel a lot of pressure to keep things the same?

PK: We actually have a lot of creative freedom, but we want the basic principles to stay the same.

TDM: What's it like working with the farm?

JS: It's such a unique opportunity to work directly with the farm, and to have close relationships with the farm hands. They are an amazing group of people.

TDM: How are your contributions different from Peter's?

JS: Pete's good with the creative side of things. I'm more logistical. I'll say, It's a great idea but is it possible to do while working with 200 covers? But we have the same goals, so we work well together.

TDM: How do you keep up with current culinary trends to ensure that Meriwether's stands out from other restaurants in Portland?

JS: A lot of research, reading, cooking websites. Sometimes I'll spend hours just weeding through mussel recipes.

PK: Communication with purveyors, definitely.

TDM: What's in store for the future of Meriwether's?

PK: It's really about trying to be more simplistic and focus on the farm.

JS: (nodding) We really want to let the veggies shine and be the stars of the dishes. We want the end result to look simple, even if the process involved is multi-faceted. No dollops of lemon foam or fussy microgreens. And the menu will be more mutable, so that we don't waste produce. You have to ask yourself, what do I do with 5,000 pounds of cabbage? You can't have cabbage in four different dishes.

TDM: What made each of you interested in the culinary arts, growing up?

PK: I worked at a four-star restaurant in Breckenridge, Colo., doing prep work at 16. After that, I attended the Denver Art Institute, spent three years as a sous chef at an Italian restaurant, then executive saucier at the Fairmont for three years in Chicago. My first gig in Portland was with Serrato [in NW]. For nine months I was in Barbados working as a chef, familiarizing myself with Caribbean-style cooking. Now I've been at Meriwether's for five years.

JS: I worked for 14 years in banquet halls in North Dakota to get out of going to church. Then, I was a busser/fry boy and sort of worked my way up from there. I worked in Minneapolis with Alex Roberts, who was nominated for a James Beard Award, and did catering for Bruce Springsteen, Metallica, and the Radio City Rockettes. When I moved to Portland I initially applied for a busser position at Meriwether's, but Joe [Joe Holdgrafer, manager at the time] passed along my resume and I started cooking instead.

TDM: Congratulations to you both; you've come a long way. Any personal goals, moving forward?

JS: To prove that we're worthy of complete autonomy with the menu. That's something we'll have to earn with time.