The Italian dessert is supposed to serve up contrast: hot and cold, sweet and bitter, vanilla and espresso. But the hot shot melts the cold scoop, yielding lukewarm coffee soup.
I called in rewrite. In this version, the ice cream keeps its cool in a chilled glass. It's lavished with coffee custard and finished with a swirl of whipped cream.
Maybe the dish veers toward the all-American sundae. But it makes for a very happy ending.
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