Chef Sam Gorenstein on the Miami seafood scene
Colombia native Sam Gorenstein moved with his family to Miami when he was 14 years old and was soon captivated by the back-of-the-house life. After graduating from Johnson & Wales University’s Miami campus, he moved to New York, where he mostly worked under Laurent Tourondel, founder of the BLT restaurants.
He then returned to Miami, and after a brief stint as executive chef at a venture that failed to thrive, he was hired by Michael Schwartz as sous chef at Michael’s Genuine Food & Drink. Soon after that, Tourondel hired him away to be executive chef of BLT Steak in Miami. He was 23 years old.
Now he’s the chef and owner of My Ceviche, a fast-casual takeout joint in Miami Beach, Fla., that has won him acclaim from his local peers. He recently visited New York and discussed his concept and the local seafood scene with Nation’s Restaurant News.
Did you offer a lot of seafood specials at BLT Steak?
Yes. It was very impressive to see the sales ratio of fish to meat in that restaurant, but it is just two steps from the ocean.
I tried to take advantage of local, lesser-known fish. People are used to the mahi mahi, the grouper, the snapper, but there’s so much more beyond that. And now people are taking more advantage of that.
Like cobia, which you get from the Keys a lot during winter. It’s also called lemon fish. It’s very good for sports fishing. If you fillet it, the loin looks very similar to hamachi. It has that nice red bloodline and a lot of intramuscular fat, but it’s as dense as a swordfish. You want to cook it just medium-medium rare. It’s excellent.
There are also pumpkin swordfish, which preys a lot on shrimp and other shellfish, so it’s bright orange. There are Spanish mackerel, kingfish, yellow jack, and hog snappers during lobster season.
What’s a hog snapper?
It looks like a dog, but the meat is pure white, very soft and it has a very sweet taste. For ceviche and other raw preparations it’s excellent, and it’s a byproduct of the spiny lobster catch. They prey on lobsters, so they get caught in the lobster traps.
Rock shrimp from the Gulf is very good, and deepwater tilefish. There are a lot of fish that people just aren’t familiar with.
What’s happening now is grouper season is closed. You used to be able to catch it commercially all year round, now you can’t during spawning season. Same thing with yellowtail snapper — it’s way overfished.
Tell me about your restaurant, My Ceviche.
I grew up in a coastal city in Colombia, and you see cevicherias everywhere. In Miami, the ocean is next to you but you can’t find a good ceviche. So my partner and I opened a ceviche place, but we didn’t want it to have a specific ethnicity. We wanted it to have a little bit of everything that I feel a ceviche should be. My partner has a stone crab business, so we also offer stone crab claws. We also have tacos, using the same protein as the ceviche, but grilled, and we have salads.
It’s nothing that I’m used to doing, because I always did fine dining and a different gastronomy. This is more on the fast-casual side of the business.