Warm Up for Winter at New York's The Lambs Club

Staff Writer
Geoffrey Zakarian's winter menu is one not to miss
Melissa Kravitz
Crispy corvina doused in rich creme fraiche veloute

The desire to sneak away from pushy outdoor crowds and snuggle up for a bit in front of a fireplace is a somewhat constant one during a New York City winter (seventy degree December days perhaps not included).  Finding a spot in front of that coveted toasty fire can sometimes be tricky, but The Lambs Club is home to a large, flickering fireplace in its dining room full of cozy leather banquettes. Chef Geoffrey Zakarian's winter menu is the epitome of upscale comfort food, a Modern American eatery, combining old fashioned dining with a modern twist on menu items: a welcome treat to New Yorkers desperate for some culinary solice in these brutal winter months.

After selecting a cocktail, start warming up with the Lambs Club's homemade bread, a noteworthy loaf served with the type of rich butter almost designed to trick you into filling up before dinner.  But leave room; petite and savory Madeleines, served warm, dissolve in your mouth with each bite of the pastry filled with matsutake mushrooms, adding a rich, comforting umami flavor.  

Start your meal with torchon of foie gras, topped with a quince gelee and best enjoyed with slices of the accompanying buckwheat crepe ($24).  For more winter warmth, autumn squash soup is topped with ginger marshmallows. poached pears, cranberries, and cashew ($16), combining the sweet and savory flavors of the holidays into a rich gift for your mouth.  

And speaking of gifts, The Lambs Club's specials are not to be passed over.  A recent dish of homemade gnocchi with artichoke hearts in crab butter, topped with freshly shaved white truffle (market price) was a celebration of all that is rich, hearty, and decadent, the type of dish you want on a gloomy frozen day.  

Another hearty option is the loin of lamb with harissa and dates, and topped with roasted heirloom carrots  ($42).  The tender, juicy round of meat is well-paired with a creative side of fluffy pistachio sponge cake, an amusing yet enjoyable pairing of flavors and textures.  

A lighter option exists with the crispy skin corvina, served with rich smoked trout roe, braised leek, potato confit, and a creamy velouté de poisson ($30). The fish is supremely crispy, allowing it to best complement the creme fraiche suace and pops of flavor in savory roe.

For dessert, a daily selection of petites fours ($10) is the way to go.  Seasonal specials like gingerbread macarons and rich chocolate truffles add a last few bites of rich, sugary goodness before you realize how cozy and stuffed you truly are.  

 

 

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