Talk about opposites: The friendly, well-run Italian-ish restaurant called Campiello has two locations — one in the bustling city of Eden Prairie, Minn., just outside Minneapolis, where the average winter temperature is around 15 degrees Fahrenheit and where three Fortune 500 companies plus the Minnesota Vikings have their headquarters; and another in the wealthy southwestern Florida tourist town of Naples, home to no Fortune 500 companies or professional sports franchises, but the site of about 80 golf courses and a place where 55 degrees in winter is considered practically an ice storm.
The menus at the two locations, which are mostly pretty similar, offer things like Caesar salad, fried calamari that tastes like there's Tabasco sauce in the batter, excellent pizzas (one with shrimp and speck, another with soppressata), some pasta dishes (penne with roasted chicken, escarole, and mortadella; garganelli with prosciutto, peas, and Piave cream), five or six main dishes (steamed mussels, grilled chicken), and a similar number of sandwiches.
I manage to have lunch at the Naples outpost of Campiello several times a year (I'm not so much a 15 degrees kind of guy), and, if I order a sandwich, it has long been the spit-roasted pork with smoked mozzarella on a crusty panini. On my most recent visit, though, I was feeling faintly virtuous, so instead I chose a new entry on the menu: wood-roasted turkey breast.
This turned out to be slices of faintly smoky-tasting, still moist turkey breast layered with what can only be described as mere wisps of red onion and avocado, along with a thin slice of cheese (provolone?) and some scraps of crisp smoky bacon, all sandwiched bewtween slices of generously seeded multigrain bread dressed with herb aïoli. It was all so light and clean and fresh that it seemed positively healthy — which was a good thing, because then I didn't feel so bad about devouring every crumb of the first-rate herb-scattered homemade potato chips that came alongside it.
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