It is difficult to judge a restaurant based on brunch alone. Usually it is a limited menu and there are only so many twists on the expected egg. So my Sunday afternoon visit to Calliope, a new East Village "Euro farmhouse" praised by many respected eaters for dinner, I took with a grain of salt.
Was I blown away? No. Was it acceptable fare? Surely. Was it pricey? Relatively. Were the ingredients fresh? No doubt.
A round of six oysters at $3 a pop and a chilled glass (or two) of French rose eased me into a brunchy state of mind. Especially with the not-quite-fall transitory breeze gusting through the rustic restaurant's french doors on this gorgeous day. But it also opened my apetite perhaps a bit too much for my satisfaction.
My entree item was just shy of satiating for $14: a breakfast sandwich of salty proscuitto and one fried egg between two unremarkable white bread buns coated with stiffened fontina cheese. The side arugula salad provided a few extra bites, but nothing exceptional exploded in my mouth.
My apathy does not encourage a repeat brunch, but I'm certainly game for late night curiosities. Especially since this young girl, Calliope, gets an A+ for ambiance and service. Let's see if supper provides some extra credit.
84 EAST FOURTH STREET
NEW YORK, NY 10003
All photos by Rebecca Kritzer