Critic Roundup: Dining that Tickles the Funny Bone

Every Week, The Daily Meal rounds up restaurant reviews from across America
Critics across the board mostly, if not greatly enjoyed their dining experiences
Cassandra Giraldo for The New York Times
Critics across the board mostly, if not greatly enjoyed their dining experiences this week, and many of their reviews were peppered with playful quips and questions.

The stars aligned around the country — and in London as well — this week in the world of restaurant criticism. Critics across the board could find at least something positive to say about the establishments they reviewed, and in nearly every case, they bestowed a glowing rundown accompanied by multiple stars or high marks.

Pete Wells of The New York Times was clearly pleased by both chef Frédéric Duca’s and sommelier Arnaud Tronche’s offerings at Racines NY, injecting a great deal of light-hearted humor into his review, such as the self-deprecating quip, “the menu is meant for dining, not snacking. Nor for sharing, either, although my attempt to keep my fork out of my wife’s plateful of whole, warm Oregon morels on a pool of half-liquid burrata failed miserably.”

The Washington Post’s Tom Sietsema enjoyed chef José Andrés’s America Eats Tavern, which was a pop-up concept in Penn Quarter for a year, now permanently installed in the Ritz-Carlton. The original concept boasted menus filled with the history behind featured dishes and ingredients, but Sietsema is glad that the reboot has left its history textbook at home: “Did Martha Washington really use cocoa nibs to decorate her chocolate cake? Does anyone but a historian care? The dessert, said to be the first FLOTUS’s recipe, is a wedge of moist, rich satisfaction.”

Restaurant Critic Roundup: 7/24/14

Critic

Publication

Restaurant

Rating

Richard Vines

Bloomberg

Beast Restaurant

7/10

Pete Wells

The New York Times

Racines NY

2 stars

Stan Sagner

The Daily News

Kailash Parbat

Mixed

Gael Greene

Insatiable Critic

Bâtard

Mostly Positive

Tom Sietsema

Washington Post

America Eats Tavern

2 stars

Eric Doska

Charleston City Paper

Georgean’s Caribbean Soul

Positive

Scott Reitz

The Dallas Observer

Stock and Barrel

Positive

William Porter

The Denver Post

Sugarmill

2 Stars

Jonathan Gold

LA Times

Smoke.Oil.Salt

Positive

Michael Bauer

San Francisco Chronicle

The Big 4

2.5 Stars

Providence Cicero

The Seattle Times

The Watershed Pub & Kitchen

2 Stars

 

Kate Kolenda is the Restaurant/City Guide Editor at The Daily Meal. Follow her on Twitter @BeefWerky and @theconversant.

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