Critic Roundup: Verbana Caters to Carnivores and Vegetarians

Every week, The Daily Meal rounds up restaurant reviews across America
San Francisco's Verbana by chef Sean Baker is a restaurant that caters equally to the carnivore and the vegetarian, says San Francisco Chronicle restaurant critic Michael Bauer.

This week in restaurant news, San Francisco Chronicle restaurant critic Michael Bauer calls Verbana by chef Sean Baker a restaurant that caters equally to the carnivore and the vegetarian.

"One wall of the restaurant is covered in a series of paintings that speaks to a commitment to farming and sustainability. The long panels look like squares of slate, but are made from pigment from the soil of their farms... The menu lists, in order, snacks, vegetable dishes, smaller nonvegetarian offerings and finally three main courses - one meat, one fish and one vegetable."

In Washington, DC, Washington Post restaurant critic Tom Sietsema reviews Fiola Mare, the "long-awaited" Mediterrean seafood restaurant by chef Fabio Trabocchi that sits on the Georgetown waterfront.

"...luck, or good timing, can land you a table with a postcard view of both the Potomac River and the Kennedy Center... Fiola Mare sports the sleek good looks of an ocean cruiser and beckons with some of the most rococo dishes now playing."

In Boston, Boston Globe restaurant critic Devra First says Lumière is "about as consistent as they come." 

"As is often the case with well-loved neighborhood bistros, the restaurant isn’t particularly fashionable," says First. "It is a simple space with white wainscoting, beige walls hung with black-and-white photos, burgundy accents, and upholstery patterned with whimsical swirls... It feels, as a friend said, like “the type of place you’d take your mother-in-law to lunch.”


Restaurant Critic Roundup: 3/12/2014


Critic Publication Restaurant Rating
Gael Greene Insatiable Critic Telepan Local
Gael Greene Insatiable Critic Tiny’s and the Bar Upstairs  
Alan Richman GQ Margaux 1 star
Alan Richman GQ Narcissa 2 stars
Pete Wells The New York Times Contra 2 stars
Stan Sagner NY Daily News Empire Diner 2 stars
Devra First Boston Globe Lumiere 3 stars
Tom Sietsema Washington Post Fiola Mare  
Jonathan Gold Los Angeles Times Orsa & Winston  
Michael Bauer San Francisco Chronicle Verbena 2.5 stars
William Porter Denver Post The Squeaky Bean 2 stars
Scott Reitz Dallas Observer The Boiling Crab  

Click here for The Daily Meal's "Top Chefs Review — and Rate — America's Food Critics."


Haley Willard is The Daily Meal's assistant editor. Follow her on Twitter at @haleywillrd

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