Restaurant Critic Roundup: Marche Moderne Declared Best French Bistro In California
As always, the ratings range from stars to bells to beans, but every review offers specialized insight into the food, atmosphere, and service of eateries in each city's dining scene and the critics eating at them.
This week in New York, critic Pete Wells tastes Aska in Brooklyn's Williamsburg neighborhood. "Wherever I sat, Aska always engaged my attention in ways that many restaurants don't," he said. "Mr. Berselius and his cooks are part of the installation, making your dinner while you watch and then setting it in front of you with the natural shyness of set builders called out on stage."
In San Francisco, "Bull Valley Roadhouse seems like a restaurant that has been hermetically sealed in the past, in a town that many people don't even know exists: Porta Costa," says critic Michael Bauer. Once inside the restaurant, you'll find Victorian furniture and steaming towels brought to you for your before-dinner wash-up.
Also in California, after his third visit critic Brad A. Johnson declares Marche Moderne in Costa Mesa, Calif., the best French bistro in all of California. Apparently, three times is a charm.
In Washington, D.C., restaurant Table is "already a destination for 30-something swells." "Eye candy is one of many draws at the restaurant, a onetime taxi repair shop that now wraps diners in a warm embrace of gracious service and fragrant aromas," says critic Tom Sietsema.
From the East Coast to the West Coast, from North to South, the weekly restaurant critic roundup is here for all of your dining out needs.
Restaurant Critic Roundup: 2/13/2013
| Critic | Publication | Restaurant | Rating |
|---|---|---|---|
| Anne Nelson | Boston Globe | Waban Kitchen | 3 stars |
| Ryan Sutton | Bloomberg | Hanjan | 2 stars |
| Michael Kaminer | New York Daily News | Old Homestead Steakhouse | 2 stars |
| Pete Wells | The New York Times | Aska | 2 stars |
| Michael Bauer | San Francisco Chronicle | Bull Valley Roadhouse | 3 bells |
| Brad A. Johnson | Orange County Register | Marche Moderne | 3.5 stars |
| Tom Sietsema | Washington Post | Table | |
| Robert Moss | Charleston City Paper | Phuong Restaurant | |
| William Porter | Denver Post | The Populist | 2 stars |
Tyler Sullivan is The Daily Meal's assistant editor. Follow her on Twitter at @atylersullivan.