Gorditas Infladas (Fried Puffed Tortillas)

Veracruz’s answer to India's puri is the gordita inflada (“puffed-up little fat one”). In talking about them, most people leave out the “inflada,” which can be confusing since the name “gordita” by itself refers to a motley family of different tortilla-like masa cakes. They are eaten in some form or other in many parts of Mexico, but everyone knows that Veracruz state is headquarters for the most varied and delicious one.Gorditas are easier to eat than to describe. The basis of the dough is always corn masa, usually combined with at least one other starchy ingredient  wheat flour, mashed plantain, mashed beans. Gorditas can be sweet (though not very) or savory. What all kinds have in common is that they puff up in cooking — a little or a lot, depending on the technique and shape. When griddle-baked, they expand just enough to be easily split when they come off the heat. Some of the thicker ones may puff in the same modest way when fried, but thinner fried gorditas, like these, absolutely balloon in front of your eyes. Gorditas infladas, the flaky puri-like ones given here, are not meant to be filled at all.You may think that getting a gordita inflada to inflate takes eons of practice. Not at all: If the oil is at the right temperature and you have a large spoon handy to keep flicking the hot fat over the upper surface, they’ll puff as if by magic. The following dough is for basic gorditas infladas as commonly made around the port city of Veracruz and the Sotavento region. It uses a combination of masa, wheat flour, and mashed plantain that produces a pliable, subtly flavored, and easily puffed dough. The cooks of the region often shape their gorditas by hand into rounded ovals, which does take a little extra skill; I’ve opted for round ones made with a tortilla press.Please note that the recipe calls for a chunk of plantain at the last stage of ripeness, black and thoroughly softened. If you have to use one that is still a little hard and starchy, soften it as follows: Increase the amount of milk to 1/2 cup; simmer the milk and sliced plantain in a small saucepan for about 15 minutes. Let cool and proceed as directed below.