Mexico City’s Best Brunch
Fonda Margarita, aka “El Club de Banqueros,” has the capital's best brunch
I have flown into countless destinations but nothing tops the colossal expanse that is Mexico City. Once you break through the clouds, buildings, skyscrapers, houses, the spiked copper dome from the 1968 Summer Olympics, and more sweep as far as the eye can see. Climbing up the sides of sleeping volcanos and dipping deep into ravines, life is constantly on the move here. Mexico City’s Benito Juárez International Airport is a daily stop for passengers traveling to Mexico’s breathtaking beaches or south to Central or South America. If you happen to be stuck with a long layover lasting anywhere from 4 a.m. to noon there is surely one thing on your mind, breakfast. What luck! Mexico’s native breakfast dishes are so sensational they will have you singing along with the mariachis with every bite.
As a Mexico City native, I was thrilled to see the culinary world had turned an ear south of the border and was suddenly talking about the deeply flavored dishes of what I call, “the motherland.” Here in Mexico, lunch is not eaten until 3 p.m., so a large percentage of the 8 million plus living in Mexico City proper begin their day with a bountiful meal brimming with sweet and savory delights. Some traditional offerings include eggs, frijoles, salsas, tortillas, chicharrones (pork cracklings) a hundred different ways, fruit, yogurt, local honey, sweet breads, nata (sweet cream), freshly squeezed juices, and more. With countless options it may be overwhelming to navigate where to go and what to order. An easy taxi ride from the airport will take you to El Parque Hundido nestled on Insurgentes in the large, and centrally located, neighborhood of Colonia del Valle. A brisk walk through the dog filled park will get you acclimated to the 2,421 meters of elevation (7,350 feet) while you can sip on (surprisingly cheap) freshly squeezed orange juice from a cart.
Situated just a few blocks down across the street from the park Jardin del Arte, is an inconspicuous restaurant made of native clay with a sliding white door and a red tiled roof. The line begins to form at the infamous Fonda Margarita, aka “El Club de Banqueros,” around 5 a.m., and by 5:30 a.m., in pour late night partiers and salary men on their way to work. By 7 a.m. local artists, celebrities, news anchors, and everyone in between, filter in to gobble up the daily offerings until doors close at 11:30 a.m. When you arrive, a man opens the sliding glass door with a smile and a “bienvenidos” and directs you to where you can take a seat. The nickname, “El Club de Banqueros,” refers to the restaurants bench style seating while also humorously suggesting that it is a very fancy establishment as the name literally means, ‘the bankers club.’ Once you are situated amongst your fellow diners the man resumes playing his maraca and singing songs of romance along with his compañero on the guitar. Breakfast and a show? Claro! This is Mexico.
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