Most New York City restaurants would consider themselves lucky to even get a review in The Times. In the 29 years that it’s been around, Gotham Bar and Grill has been reviewed no fewer than six times by the Gray Lady. Even more impressive? It has scored 15 stars — five three-star reviews (four is the best) since chef Alfred Portale took it over in 1985. You can argue about what other restaurants could better stand in for this Greenwich Village institution as the standard-bearer of American haute cuisine — yellowfin tuna tartare with miso–ginger vinaigrette, pheasant and foie gras terrine with black trumpet mushrooms and baby Chioggia beets, Skuna Bay salmon with caramelized fennel and Swiss chard and potato confit — but few would debate the merits of the classic dishes here or the restaurant's long-term commitment to innovation.